Ask a San Franciscan where to get good southern food, and chances are high that Brenda's name will come up. Particularly if you are asking about southern brunch. Brenda's is notorious in the long-lines-at-brunch scene, even given the less than ideal location in the Tenderloin. But the masses still line up, and although I never lined up myself, I finally got to try it.
Brenda's original restaurant was so successful they are now a mini-chain in the Bay Area, with three locations: the original Brenda's French Soul Food, an outpost in Oakland, and a slightly different second concept also in San Francisco, Brenda's Meat & Three. It is the later that I tried.
The name is a bit perplexing if you are unfamiliar with the meat & three southern concept. Yes, the tie in to the well known Brenda's French Soul Food is clear, but, what about the "Meat & Three" part? The answer, per their website:
"A southern culinary tradition, meat & three diners are popular with locals who choose one meat (or entrée) and three side dishes from a daily selection of down-home favorites."
This is a fairly standard concept at southern style restaurants, which I recently discovered when I went to Atlanta (although, maybe this is the economy, or more awareness of health consequences, but "meat and two" seemed more prevalent).
The menu at Brenda's for every meal period is fairly large, at all locations. While they differ slightly, for the most part, they offer similar items.
For lunch and dinner, you can pick from a number of comfort food sandwiches, like pulled pork, classic muffuletta, several kinds of po'boys, a signature fried bologna, and of course a fried chicken sandwich, but they also have unique items like a vegan sloppy joe or fried veggie po'boy to really cater to a larger audience. If you prefer more substantial entrees, you can pick from everything from shrimp & grits to an interesting pasta creation loaded with seafood. And of course, there are platters of fried chicken, fried catfish or shrimp, ribs, pulled pork, and more. Appetizers include hush puppies, gumbo, salads, and shrimp in a cayenne butter sauce. And then there are beignets, both sweet and savory, offered at every location, every meal.
The breakfast/brunch menu adds in specials like biscuits & gravy, a slew of egg options (benedicts - with their southern style biscuits rather than english muffins and creole hollandaise!, omelettes, etc), french toast, hash, and breakfast meats.
I ordered for delivery, so I can't comment on the restaurant experience, but my delivery experience was reasonable - well packaged, timely arrival.
Side note: Stuck doing a lot of takeout and delivery these days? Want to try some free food and new pickup or delivery services? Here are some codes for free money!
- Door Dash ($15 off, $5 each of your first 3 orders) [ Delivery or pickup ]
- Delivery.com ($10 off) [ Delivery or pickup ]
- Grub Hub ($10 off) [ Delivery or pickup ]
- Seamless ($10 off) [ Delivery or pickup ]
- Uber Eats ($20 off - use code eats-lejw5 at checkout) [ Pickup or delivery ]
Beignets
Beignets at Brenda's are signature items. Available at brunch, lunch, and dinner, and in a variety of flavors, mostly sweet (chocolate or granny smith filled are their classics, but they now also have a trendy ube version!), or plain. The sweet options definitely appeal to me, but, I actually was looking for something savory, and the idea of the savory beignet intrigued me.
|
Beignet Bag. |
I was a little surprised when I opened my large takeout bag to find my beignet in a smaller paper bag (but still quite sizable), with a "crawfish" stamp on it. I suspect if you order more than one kind, this makes sense, and the bag was absolutely fine for packaging in a way that didn't make it get soggy (although it didn't really keep it warm). It looked a little silly to have the single beignet in the big bag though.
|
Crawfish Beignet. $4.50. |
"Spiced with cayenne, scallions & cheddar."
The beignet was covered in a messy coating (cayenne and other blackening spices I think?), much like you'd find powdered sugar coating a sweet beignet. This is the kind of item you eat with your hands, but, yes, you'll get messy fingers, in a Cheetos kind of way (just, not quite as artificially orange). I actually didn't care for the coating, as it made the beignet eat a bit dry. I did appreciate the flavor, but, I'd actually prefer it without.
The beignet itself was crispy on the outside, and fluffy inside. It didn't taste oily nor fried. Good dough. It was fairly dense, and ate pretty heavy. And, as I mentioned, a bit dry.
The beignet was quite sizable, and if you want one a an appetizer before a more substantial meal, I recommend sharing. Beignets are mostly available only in sets of 3 (of a kind), or as a flight (of all kinds), but the crawfish beignet is also available on its own at diner time for a reasonable $4.50.
|
Crawfish Beignet: Inside. |
The beignet was very, very generously stuffed with crawfish filling.
I wasn't quite sure what to expect besides bits of crawfish, and the answer seemed to be a creamy sauce, likely much like the roux used as the base of their étouffée. It was really well seasoned, full of classic southern flavors. The creamy filling helped balance out the more dry exterior. It was rich and screamed southern comfort, but didn't over power the beignet. The crawfish were perfectly cooked, with a slight chew. The menu mentions cheddar, which I didn't actually detect, but perhaps it was in there adding to the creaminess.
The filling really was quite tasty, and it worked amazingly well with the beignet dough. I did end up stuffing some cole slaw and pickles into mine to make what I considered pretty perfect bites (slightly less dry this way), but it was quite enjoyable on its own too.
This was a unique and tasty dish, and I recommend it if you are up for trying something different (and aren't crawfish nor carb averse).
***+.
Sides
Given the concept, it is no surprise that Brenda's Meat & Three offers a slew of sides (at least 20 of them!), mostly all your traditional southern sides: cole slaw, potato salad, grits, cheesy grits, mashed potatoes, collard greens, red beans & rice, mac & cheese, corn succotash, okra & tomato maque choux, fries, etc, etc. Many vegan, most vegetarian, some gluten-free. These are available a la carte as well.
|
Cole Slaw. $3.50. |
To go with my beignet I got the slaw.
Ok, this looks like just any old cole slaw. Shredded cabbage, mostly green, a little carrot, dressed in mayo based dressing. It didn't look particularly interesting, no extra special ingredients, no interesting size chunks, not even any noticeable seasoning.
But this was excellent cole slaw. At least, totally the kind of slaw that I like. It was fairly fresh and crisp, although certainly a bit soft, likely was made that morning. It was well dressed, every piece covered in dressing, but not over dressed nor soggy. The dressing I suspect is what made it for me, besides mayo, I'm not entirely sure what was in it, but, it was creamy and flavorful.
It is hard to really pinpoint what made this so good, as there isn't anything obvious, but I really enjoyed it. The portion was quite large (that was a large container!), and for $3.50 it was a great value. Definitely the best cole slaw I've had in recent years, and I'd get it again in a heartbeat.
****+.
Retail Items
Brenda's offers a line of retail packaged jams, pickles, and sauces, including pepper jelly and the jams they serve at breakfast (peach cobbler or spiced strawberry), along with several kinds of pickles, and even a tomato bacon relish.
I come from a family of canners, and grew up eating homemade pickled things of all kinds, and of course, always homemade jams, so I was thrilled to see this lineup. Grocery store pickles, even fancier ones, just don't compare.
|
Pepper Jelly. $1.25. |
Pepper jelly is normally served with the cornbread, or chicken meals, but you can also add it on to your order for $1.25 (or get a full size retail jar if you really want to stock up).
The pepper jelly was a different style than I've had other places, no chunks, just a smooth sauce. It was slightly sweet, not particularly spicy, and nicely pepper flavored. I found it went well with my crawfish beignet, it went well with the slaw, and I'm sure it would go great with the cornbread or biscuit too. Very versatile and a nice add-on. I'd get it again.
****.
|
Bread & Butter Pickles. $10.50. |
First up, I opted for the bread & butter pickles, always a classic in my house.
The top few slices were slightly mushy, but they got a bit more firm as I dug deeper. All were a touch softer than I prefer. Moderately thinly sliced, so less bite to them than a thicker slice. Good level of acid. Considerably more tart than most bread and butter pickles, which can trend overly sweet. I had hoped for slices of onions and/or peppers in the mix, as my family has always included those in bread and butter pickles, but these were cucumber only.
Overall, good pickles, better than your average store brand, but I wanted a bit more from them. ***+.
The pickles went really well with the slaw and savory beignet, and are a great compliment to any southern meal.
|
Pickled Okra. $10.50.
|
I couldn't resist trying a jar of the pickled okra as well. My family pickled many things other than just cucumbers, and in particular, the dilly beans and asparagus were always favorites of mine, but I can safely say we never had pickled okra. However, just like green beans and asparagus, it seemed like a totally reasonable crunchy green vegetable to pickle to me, so I couldn't wait to try it. I hoped it would be crisp and not slimy though ...
I really, really, really did not like this product. The okra sliminess was not the issue (although that was kinda there). The issue was the taste. It was bitter. It was sour. It just tasted bad. Like, potentially unsafe to eat, not properly sealed and pickled bad. I wonder if I got a bad batch? Yikes.