Las Vegas has no shortage of dining options, ranging from the high end would-be-Michelin-starred (if Vegas still had Michelin stars) to those with celebrity chefs at the helm to every chain restaurant you can desire. You want it, Vegas has it. So we had no shortage of choice when looking for a restaurant for our group of about 15 people our first night in town.
Our organizers settled on Water Grill, which thrilled me, as it is seafood focused (as you may have guessed by the name), had an incredible menu, and gets pretty stellar reviews. I was delighted. I found out later that Water Grill is a small chain, with locations in a few places in southern California, along with one each in Denver and Seattle, and obviously, one in Las Vegas. I was unfamiliar with the brand before now.
Our group was large, but we were not required to do any kind of fixed menu, which I appreciated. Sometimes with a large group ordering a la carte from the main menu though there are issues with food actually arriving around the same time since people are getting such different things, or with dishes being served at improper temperatures (e.g. hot food lukewarm as it was clearly sitting waiting for the rest of the dishes to be ready, etc), but we did not have those problems. Service otherwise though was quite inconsistent - sometimes attentive, but other times, we went a long time with no drink refills, nor even the ability to flag someone down to order more, as they just never looked our way. The restaurant was busy, but not overwhelmingly so, so this was a slight mark against them.
Besides the uneven service, and strict policy around seating groups only once everyone was there, I found the experience quite good. The food was fairly exceptional, and I'd gladly return. The best seafood meal I've had in a long time. To give an indication of how good the savory food was, I left, completely satisfied and happy, without getting dessert (granted, that was partially because it had gotten pretty late, but, even though I had looked at the dessert menu in advance, and really did want nearly any of the desserts too, I didn't leave feeling wanting, and that is remarkable for sweet tooth me!).
Setting
The Las Vegas Water Grill location is located inside the Forum Shops at Caesars Palace, which honestly is fairly charming, although it is a bit of a maze of a mall, and can be a touch tricky to find and navigate inside.
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Curb Appeal! |
It is located on what basically a charming outdoor street ... but, indoors (note the fake sky).
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Entrance. |
The restaurant is fairly large, with a bar area, and waiting area. They seem to have a very strict policy around not seating your party until nearly everyone is there, just, FYI. We had some stragglers, so were not allowed to sit (even though our table was ready, and the restaurant not very busy) until most were there. Strangely, they didn't try to get us to order drinks or start a tab while we waited in this area.
Drinks
The cocktail menu really jumped out at me, with so many very interesting drinks made with spirits I enjoy (e.g. not just rum, vodka, etc), so I skipped the wine list and went right for a cocktail.
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A Night in Osaka. $18.50. |
"Suntory 'Toki' whiskey, Amaro Nonino, amontillado sherry, maple syrup & grapefruit bitters ... served up."
This was very tasty. Strong bitter and citrus notes, balanced by a bit of natural maple sweetness. Not a booze forward cocktail, although it definitely had plenty in it, as I felt it faster than expected. Just really well crafted and balanced.
I really enjoyed, and would get again. ****.
Appetizers
The menu at Water Grill is really quite large. The menu is a book. And three full pages of it are all starter / appetizer / share plates to begin your meal.
Here you'll find everything from a decent sushi lineup (which, my group did get a few rolls, but I didn't try them because they have avocado, and I wasn't able to snap a photo as they were placed further away on the table anyway, but, folks seemed to like them), to a substantial raw bar (with a zillion kinds of oysters), to a ton of chilled shellfish options (multiple kinds of crab claws, plus dungeness crab or king crab nuggets if you prefer, lobster, urchin, mussels, scallops, etc, etc), available as platters with a combo of items too (we skipped all this due to budget reasons), to some salads, chowder, and a bunch of cooked apps.
I was excited by much of these sections, and would have gladly tried most things. We settled on 3 cooked appetizers, and the aforementioned sushi rolls for the group.
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Bread Service (Complimentary). |
Bread was brought to us moments after we sat, before we had ordered any drinks, nor even received water. It was served warm.
I knew this was sourdough, which I dislike, so I only took a small piece that someone else had ripped off. It was delightfully hot, and I liked the shiny top and large salt crystals on top, but, but alas, yes, very sourdough. The rest of the group seemed to enjoy. Nice quality butter as well.
*** for me, because I can appreciate that it was a well made roll, just not one for me.
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Wild Spanish Octopus. $26. |
"Charcoal grilled with fingerling potato, niçoise olives, roasted tomato, lemon and olive oil."
Octopus!
I was very excited for this. I had heard it was a signature dish, and, well, I love octopus. I knew I wouldn't love the accompaniments, as I don't care for olives or cooked tomato, and although I like potatoes, in this form isn't really how I find them enjoyable, but with so many raves of how well prepared the octopus is, I still eagerly dug in.
It was ... fine. It was a very attractive dish, a large tentacle, lovingly arranged. But it really didn't have the char and grilled element I expected, and wanted, from a charcoal grilled item. It wasn't too tough or chewy, but I didn't find it particularly tender either. Basically, pretty average octopus.
As expected, the Mediterranean sides weren't really my thing. I wanted an aioli or something with it. Also, NOT listed on the menu was the fact that the accompaniments included pine nuts, and after my experience with pine mouth syndrome about 10+ years ago, I am frankly terrified of them, and avoid at all costs, so this was a big deterrent for me, and something I wish they had included in the description, because I would have tried to have them left out.
The only real letdown of the meal, both because I had read such great other reviews, and because it just wasn't anything notable. ***.
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Crisp Calamari. $22. |
"Harissa aioli and cilantro-mint sweet chili sauce."
The group also ordered calamari. I tried it. It was also fine? The breading didn't fall off to easily, it didn't dominate, so all good there. The calamari within wasn't too chewy. I think I wasn't quite in the mood for it, but also, we had so many other stellar dishes coming, this one was a bit boring in comparison. It would have benefited from a lemon to squeeze over it as well (and interestingly, this was the only dish I found lacked acid).
Still, no complains about the actual execution of the dish. ***+.
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Harissa Aioli / Cilantro-Mint Sweet Chili Sauce. (for calamari). |
The cilantro-mint sweet chili sauce sounded more interesting than it was. It still just was a sweet chili sauce, which for me, was too sweet with the calamari. The aioli was fine.
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Jumbo Lump Crab Cake. $25. |
"Celery root remoulade."
I love crab, obviously, as I have
a label devoted to it on my blog. I wasn't actually planning to get the crab cake at Water Grill though, because, well, everywhere in Vegas has crab cakes. I'm glad someone decided to get several for the table, because this was fantastic.
I struggle to explain exactly why it was so good. It wasn't a lump style with huge pieces of crab, although it had very little filler, it was mostly shredded. It had a light breadcrumb coating and was lightly crispy. Moist inside. It was really well seasoned, and used extremely fresh high quality crab. It was just really shockingly tasty, when it looked so standard. ****+ crab cake.
The remoulade under it was creamy, balanced it well, had a nice acidity, excellent pairing. ****.
And finally, the little side vegetable that was pickles and red onions, nice for a bit of crispness, and more acidity, but not particularly mind blowing. ***+.
Tied for second favorite dish of the meal, and one I'd absolutely go back for. Recommend with no hesitation. I gleefully took seconds and thirds when others slowed down.
Specials
The daily menu had a few whole roasted fish (your choice of charcoal grilled or oven roasted), priced per pound, including several kinds of bream (pink or black), dover sole, and black sea bass. But my eyes were quickly drawn to the other specials, all featuring first of the season halibut.
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First of Season Wild Pacific Halibut Specials. |
There were two appetizer choices (roasted cheeks or tail), or a seared filet as an entree. The entree dish did sound very appealing, served with spring peas, braised leeks, and a lemon velouté, all things I enjoy, but I actually wanted something a bit smaller, so went for one of the appetizers instead.
I was very, very pleased with my choice.
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Pan Roasted Wild Pacific Halibut Cheeks. $23. |
"Braised fennel, brown butter lemon sauce."
I went for the appetizer dish, the halibut cheeks, as my main course, given that we had so many other appetizers, and I knew others would have more to share too. The portion was perfect for me at that point.
This dish was absolutely incredible. I'll just start with that. Incredible.
The sauce ... ZOMG. I'm a sucker for a good cream sauce, and this was a very good cream sauce. So much depth to it too, from the brown butter. It looked slightly broken, but I think that may have been additional brown butter drizzled on top. Adored the sauce, really. ****+.
And then the halibut cheeks. What a lovely treat. I haven't had cheeks all that many times, but I adore them when I do. It reminded me slightly of monkfish cheek, but more delicate. Slightly stringy in a way that mirrors crab, but, not quite. Tender. Mild. Sweet. Just, such a delicious protein. Nothing I would change about the halibut cheeks. ****+.
The braised fennel was just one small piece. I would have liked more. There may have been fennel in the sauce too?
Anyway, stunning dish. Blew me away. A rare protein to see on a menu, and just really allowed to shine. Best dish of the night. Get this. ****+.
Sides
Since I was getting just an appetizer as my main, I also opted to get a side dish (and suggested a few for the table).
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Sides. |
I liked the sound of most of the sides: mac & cheese at a great restaurant can be incredible, and this had 7 (!) cheeses, brussels I always like, but these were even further enhanced with bacon & chestnuts, and I'm a sucker for great mashed potatoes. But I adore asparagus, and it was just coming into season, so that was a no brainer.
Vegetarian sides are $14, those with some meat are $15.
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Sautéed Asparagus Gremolata. $14. |
I really enjoyed this. Nice char to it, cooked on the grill, even though the menu said sautéed (even better!)? Perfectly tender, no woodsy stems, very fresh tasting. Early season asparagus, just, shining. The gremolata accented it well.
My forth favorite dish, but again, one I recommend with zero hesitation. ****+.
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Yukon Gold Mashed Potatoes. $14. |
Others ordered the mashed potatoes as a side, and when there was extra, of course I tried it. This was crazy rich mash, which you can kinda tell just by looking at it, but it too was very very good.
I was too stuffed at that point to truly appreciate, but, far above average mash, and I'd gladly get it again. Fifth favorite dish? ****.
Mains
And then, the main courses. Another few pages on the menu. Here you'll find a couple token sandwiches (burger, lobster roll), crustaceans (Dungeness crab, king crab legs, lobster),a slew of seafood options (ranging from Italian shrimp scampi or cioppino, to fish & chips, to Mediterranean style swordfish, Asian style black cod with soba, and many, many more. Just pick your seafood, and they likely have a well curated dish with it. These dishes all generally have a specific sauce, side, and garnish. And finally, for the non-seafood eaters, some meat: filet mignon in several sizes, new york strip, rib eye, yadda yadda, or, of course, the token grilled chicken.
The rest of my group selected regular main dishes for themselves individually, and all but one opted for seafood. As I expected, others had plenty of extra, and let me try a few things. I didn't get photos of all of them though, as our table was long.
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Wild Ross Sea Chilean Sea Bass. $55. |
"Butternut squash gnocchi, sage brown butter."
The sea bass was the dish I would have ordered if getting a full size entree myself (besides the special halibut), so I was delighted that multiple others got it, and had extra.
They raved about the fish, but said the gnocchi was just fine. I still tried the gnocchi and actually really liked it, and think they didn't give it enough love. I don't even consider myself someone who is generally excited by gnocchi. It had a lovely sweetness to it from the butternut, was soft and fluffy inside, and lightly lightly crispy on the exterior. Pretty much as good as a gnocchi really can be. The extra butternut squash puree on the plate reinforced the flavors and sweetness, and added a lovely creamy element. High **** for these components, maybe even ****+.
The sea bass really was expertly cooked. Perfect sear. Moist inside. Mild flavor. Infused with sage brown butter. Yup. Excellent dish. My other dish tied for second place, along with those crab cakes. I'd gladly have it again too. ****.