It was far lighter than I had expected, not as much acid nor tannin as is characteristic of this style of wine, and was better suited for me anyway. Very smooth and easy drinking, with subtle complexity to it. I'd get it again, but would love to explore more of their wine list.
All tables were given a bread basket after ordering. No butter nor olive oil came with it, and the bread was not warmed. Two kinds, not sourdough. I skipped this.
I failed to get a photo of the olives that were on the table when we arrived, with toothpicks for easy eating.
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Marinated Green Asparagus. 16.60. |
"with tarragon béarnaise & mustard eggs."
For my starter, I went with the seasonal pick: asparagus. This was a green asparagus, as opposed to the white asparagus as a main. I really was just craving asparagus, and in particular, asparagus with béarnaise/hollandaise, which I had, literally the day before (green with bearnaise) in the Swiss First Class lounge in Zurich (which, by the way, was outstanding! (review coming soon!), and the week before (
local Zuckerman's farms colossal green with hollandaise at Boulevard in San Francisco). This was actually the most interesting of all the preparations.
The serving of 4 spears looked a touch small at first, but with all the egg and other garnish, it was actually a nice size, I wouldn't have wanted more. The asparagus were well cooked, not mushy, but not particularly flavorful. It also wasn't particularly warm. The colossal asparagus at Boulevard certainly had more flavor to it, and the Swiss Lounge asparagus was better seasoned. So, the asparagus itself, fine, but not really interesting, and I did find myself really wanting a touch of salt and pepper (which, I asked for, and was quickly given grinders for each).
What made this interesting wasn't even the bearnaise actually (which, was good, light and fluffy), as the other two preps I had recently had similar components. It wasn't the cute little tomatoes that I ignored as I don't care for cooked tomato. Nope, it was the simple sounding "mustard eggs". What this was was cubed bits of hardboiled egg along with grainy mustard. Think of the egg you might get with caviar and blinis, and it was that, plus some mustard. There was also a different yellow sauce on it (not the bearnaise, that was separate in a bowl), that I think was a citrus heavy oil? Those components were actually really tasty, which surprised me as none seemed like anything I'd care about, and certainly not combined with each other. But mixed together it was a tasty sauce to dunk my asparagus in, or really, even just eat on its own.
So, asparagus? Fine. Bearnaise? Fine. Accompaniments? Tasty and fascinating. I was glad to eat the dish, but I wouldn't likely order it again.
***+.
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Crustacean Carpaccio. 19.50. |
"with raw marinated artichokes, lime vinaigrette, & szechuan pepper."
My dining companions opted to split the crustacean carpaccio, which was my second choice, and likely what I would have ordered if I hadn't just had a crustacean "salad" on my Swiss Airlines First Class flight (again, review coming soon!) that seemed similar, and filled all my quasi raw crustacean needs for a few days.
It came with one seared scallop, that looked like it had a decent sear, but was not particularly large. It also had all sorts of emulsions drizzled over it, and what we think was candied lemon peel. Now that I see this, I think actually my dish had the same yellow sauce (lime vinaigrette?) and buffet Kull did definitely re-use components across dishes.
They seemed happy enough with this dish.
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Grilled Octopus. 17.50. |
"with fine merguez lamb sausage, lime & pointed bell pepper pesto."
My main dish was actually another starter, the one I most wanted, the octopus. In very uncharacteristic style, it turns out that I totally missed the *lamb* description on the merguez sausage, but luckily I realized it before I started eating. My dining companions, both of whom almost ordered the lamb main (and one did) gladly took it off my hands.
The octopus was really nicely done, and I was very happy with my pick. I had octopus the day before that wasn't nearly as good, and before that ... I don't know the last time I had octopus. It had a slight smoky quality from the grill, the perfect chew (not rubbery), and really, was just well prepared. They always have an octopus on the menu, and it gets strong reviews, which I realized why.
This dish was another though where the accompaniments really were interesting. The green base I believe was a pea puree, not mentioned on the menu at all, but very "spring" flavored, smooth, creamy. I quite enjoyed it. The red stuff was the "pointed bell pepper pesto" which I was prepared to say "meh" to, as I don't tend to be excited about bell pepper flavors, but, this was crazypants flavorful and went really well with the octopus. I loved the texture too. There was also a thin brown sauce on the plate I couldn't identify.
Overall, a very good dish, great execution of the protein, tasty sides. I'd get it again.
****.
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Char Fillet. 28.50. |
"with pointed cabbage, lobster bisque & char caviar."
One of my dining companions went for the char, which was probably my third choice of main (behind the loup de mer and white asparagus). I had char the previous two days though, so I was sufficiently sick of char/salmon/etc. It looked nice, skin crispy.
My other dining companion opted for the lamb, that I didn't take a photo of, but we definitely on the well done side of medium-well, which was disappointing to him. He had the same tasty bell pepper pesto I did, along with cous cous and other mediteranean inspirations. It seemed fine, but, more cooked than he'd like.
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Dessert Menu. |
The theme of my trip so far had been desserts, lot of them (on my flight, in the airline lounges, at breakfast that morning, after lunch ...), so you'd think perhaps I'd skip dessert, particularly when the menu didn't have anything I particularly wanted, but ... you know me and
dessert.
The crumbles took a little time to arrive, but clearly each had been freshly baked, or at least warmed, in their own creme brulee dishes. I appreciated that they were served so warm.
I almost liked this. It was actually more like a soft warm cake or muffin to me than a crumble - the top was crumble-eque, but the body was mostly softer cake, rather than what I expected as a fruity heavy base with just crumble/crisp on top. I'd say mine was at least 85% crumble rather than fruit. Maybe more what I'd call a buckle or betty? Anyway, that part was sweet, warm, and decent, but I was in the mood for a fruit dessert, and got pretty sick of eating cake.
The fruit was quite minimal in mine, very cooked down mushy rhubarb, very sweet actually, no signature rhubarb tartness coming through. So I didn't mind it, but would prefer some other kind of seasonal fruit.
And finally, the sour cream ice cream, which I did quite enjoy. It was tart and creamy and helped balance the otherwise quite sweet dessert. Warm dessert and cool ice cream is always a winner for me, and I even would have wanted more of it (or, equal parts this and whipped cream or whipped creme fraiche), as I ran out, and was thus left with spoonfuls of just cake. Ratios just felt off all around on this.
So, interesting, but not entirely successful. ***.