buffet Kull Bar, Munich

"French joie de vivre. With a New York spirit."

When in Germany, go to a French brasserie, right?  Perhaps not what most tourists do, but, to start of my recent trip to Munich, that is exactly what I did, my first night in town, with a couple co-workers.  I knew we had a full week of German beer halls, beer gardens, sausages and pretzels, and lots of meat and potatoes ahead.  I wanted something a bit different.

So to buffet Kull Bar we went, our reservation easily made ahead of time on Opentable.  Service was good, we were provided English menus (which I anticipated as their website had both English and German) but it definitely didn't feel like a touristy place, and every other table I overheard was speaking German.  The staff checked in on us just frequently enough, met my additional needs ("Could I have some salt and pepper?", "Do you have a small spoon I can use with my dessert?", "Can I take the leftovers to go", etc) with a smile and ease, and paced the meal out nicely.  Never rushed but not too leisurely either.

Setting

Buffet Kull bar is located a few blocks off the Marienplatz, so we were able to enjoy a leisurely stroll there from out hotel, great for keeping energy up and combating jet lag.

Sidewalk Seating.

The restaurant has a fairly small inside area, but expands out onto the sidewalk when the weather allows.  Since our visit was in May, this was iffy on the rain front, and we lucked out by it being a relatively warm evening.

More sidewalk seating.

Our table was right up against the restaurant, where they did have some heaters installed, and an awning to cover, neither of which were needed.

The vibe both outside and in was fairly vibrant, people all enjoying good wine and company, slightly nicer dining, but certainly not fine dining stuffy.

Food & Drink

"High-quality, Mediterranean-inspired meat and fish dishes meet a select range of wines and spirits; French brasserie cuisine meets New York lifestyle."

Savory Cuisine.

I had of course read the menu in advance online on their website, and looked at recent photos on Instagram, and was fairly certain I knew what I was ordering before setting foot in the restaurant.  I did actually kinda want 4 of the 8 starters, and kinda wanted 3 of the 8 mains, and would have gladly shared any of the additional side dishes, but actually I narrowed in on my choices fairly easily.

For my main, I actually had another starter (grilled octopus).  I knew I wanted at least one other starter and dessert, my appetite was skewed from jetlag and poorly timed (late) previous meals and snacks, so, 2 starters and a dessert was plenty, and the restaurant had no problem accommodating this.  I was pleased with my choices. 

Reds by the Glass.

The wine list was in its own leather binder, and was fairly extensive, all in German.  They did have only 4 regular reds by the glass, or 3 more by Coravin.  Most tables got bottles, but my companions started with beer, so I did wine by the glass, priced in .1L pours, which I wish places in the US did so I could try more wines at a time!

2016 Brunello di Montalcino, Casanova di Neri, Toskana. 18.50.

I splurged on a Coravin wine, a rare chance to try something like this.  I got only the tiny .1L pour, which would be perfect to enjoy alongside a single course.

It was far lighter than I had expected, not as much acid nor tannin as is characteristic of this style of wine, and was better suited for me anyway.  Very smooth and easy drinking, with subtle complexity to it.  I'd get it again, but would love to explore more of their wine list.

Bread Basket.

All tables were given a bread basket after ordering.  No butter nor olive oil came with it, and the bread was not warmed.  Two kinds, not sourdough.  I skipped this.

I failed to get a photo of the olives that were on the table when we arrived, with toothpicks for easy eating.

Marinated Green Asparagus. 16.60.

"with tarragon béarnaise & mustard eggs."

For my starter, I went with the seasonal pick: asparagus.  This was a green asparagus, as opposed to the white asparagus as a main.  I really was just craving asparagus, and in particular, asparagus with béarnaise/hollandaise, which I had, literally the day before (green with bearnaise) in the Swiss First Class lounge in Zurich (which, by the way, was outstanding! (review coming soon!), and the week before (local Zuckerman's farms colossal green with hollandaise at Boulevard in San Francisco).  This was actually the most interesting of all the preparations.

The serving of 4 spears looked a touch small at first, but with all the egg and other garnish, it was actually a nice size, I wouldn't have wanted more.  The asparagus were well cooked, not mushy, but not particularly flavorful.  It also wasn't particularly warm.  The colossal asparagus at Boulevard certainly had more flavor to it, and the Swiss Lounge asparagus was better seasoned.  So, the asparagus itself, fine, but not really interesting, and I did find myself really wanting a touch of salt and pepper (which, I asked for, and was quickly given grinders for each).

What made this interesting wasn't even the bearnaise actually (which, was good, light and fluffy), as the other two preps I had recently had similar components.  It wasn't the cute little tomatoes that I ignored as I don't care for cooked tomato.  Nope, it was the simple sounding "mustard eggs".  What this was was cubed bits of hardboiled egg along with grainy mustard.  Think of the egg you might get with caviar and blinis, and it was that, plus some mustard.  There was also a different yellow sauce on it (not the bearnaise, that was separate in a bowl), that I think was a citrus heavy oil?  Those components were actually really tasty, which surprised me as none seemed like anything I'd care about, and certainly not combined with each other.  But mixed together it was a tasty sauce to dunk my asparagus in, or really, even just eat on its own.

So, asparagus?  Fine.  Bearnaise?  Fine.  Accompaniments?  Tasty and fascinating.   I was glad to eat the dish, but I wouldn't likely order it again.

***+.

Crustacean Carpaccio. 19.50.

"with raw marinated artichokes, lime vinaigrette, & szechuan pepper."

My dining companions opted to split the crustacean carpaccio, which was my second choice, and likely what I would have ordered if I hadn't just had a crustacean "salad" on my Swiss Airlines First Class flight (again, review coming soon!) that seemed similar, and filled all my quasi raw crustacean needs for a few days.

It came with one seared scallop, that looked like it had a decent sear, but was not particularly large.  It also had all sorts of emulsions drizzled over it, and what we think was candied lemon peel.  Now that I see this, I think actually my dish had the same yellow sauce (lime vinaigrette?) and buffet Kull did definitely re-use components across dishes.

They seemed happy enough with this dish.

Grilled Octopus. 17.50.

"with fine merguez lamb sausage, lime & pointed bell pepper pesto."

My main dish was actually another starter, the one I most wanted, the octopus.  In very uncharacteristic style, it turns out that I totally missed the *lamb* description on the merguez sausage, but luckily I realized it before I started eating.  My dining companions, both of whom almost ordered the lamb main (and one did) gladly took it off my hands.

The octopus was really nicely done, and I was very happy with my pick.  I had octopus the day before that wasn't nearly as good, and before that ... I don't know the last time I had octopus.  It had a slight smoky quality from the grill, the perfect chew (not rubbery), and really, was just well prepared.  They always have an octopus on the menu, and it gets strong reviews, which I realized why.

This dish was another though where the accompaniments really were interesting.  The green base I believe was a pea puree, not mentioned on the menu at all, but very "spring" flavored, smooth, creamy.  I quite enjoyed it.  The red stuff was the "pointed bell pepper pesto" which I was prepared to say "meh" to, as I don't tend to be excited about bell pepper flavors, but, this was crazypants flavorful and went really well with the octopus.  I loved the texture too.  There was also a thin brown sauce on the plate I couldn't identify.

Overall, a very good dish, great execution of the protein, tasty sides.  I'd get it again.

****.  

Char Fillet. 28.50.

"with pointed cabbage, lobster bisque & char caviar."

One of my dining companions went for the char, which was probably my third choice of main (behind the loup de mer and white asparagus).  I had char the previous two days though, so I was sufficiently sick of char/salmon/etc.  It looked nice, skin crispy.

My other dining companion opted for the lamb, that I didn't take a photo of, but we definitely on the well done side of medium-well, which was disappointing to him.  He had the same tasty bell pepper pesto I did, along with cous cous and other mediteranean inspirations.  It seemed fine, but, more cooked than he'd like.

Dessert Menu.

The theme of my trip so far had been desserts, lot of them (on my flight, in the airline lounges, at breakfast that morning, after lunch ...), so you'd think perhaps I'd skip dessert, particularly when the menu didn't have anything I particularly wanted, but ... you know me and dessert.

The dessert lineup:

• Crème Brûlée (which, I'd normally get in a heartbeat, but, I literally had panna cotta just a a few hours before, and panna cotta, and whipped cheesecake, and mango mousse the day before that ... so, yes, crème brûlée lover I am, I wasn't interested in another pudding-like dessert).
• Tarte Tatin (which, um, I never like, and is very far at the bottom of my list of desserts, particular apple ones).
• Rhubarb Crumble (fruit crumble with ice cream?  Yes!  Oh, but, rhubarb ... too many childhood experiences of mom making strawberry-rhubarb this or that, and me thinking it was just strawberry ....)
• Chocoalte Foundant (which I'd get if not nighttime, but, #caffeine).
• Lemon Sorbet (I mean really, is this even a dessert?  It is a palette cleanser!).
• Cheese Plate (After a day in Zurich, I didn't need more cheese!).

And thus, dessert didn't really make sense, neither of my companions were hankering for it either, but ... you know me.  Warm fruit crumble it was, even if rhubarb, as it came with an interesting sounding ice cream that I could enjoy if all else failed.  My co-workers wanted the same, and didn't want to split anything, so, 3 of the same it was.

The dessert menu also listed a few dessert wines, grappe, and a slew of brandies.

Hazelnut Brandy, Lantenhammer, Schliersee. 8.80.

Since I had only .1L of wine and my wine glass became empty long ago, I decided to pair dessert with one of the many brandies on the menu, sorta randomly picking the hazelnut one.

The aroma to this was lovely.  Sooo much nutty goodness.  It smelt like Nutella.  And then, you take a sip, and ... yup, it is alcohol!  My co-workers agreed it smelt amazing, and said it was like if your vodka smelt like Nutella.

Fun to sip and try, not something I'd get again. ***.

Rhubarb Crumble. 10.50.

"with sour cream ice cream."

The crumbles took a little time to arrive, but clearly each had been freshly baked, or at least warmed, in their own creme brulee dishes.  I appreciated that they were served so warm.

I almost liked this.  It was actually more like a soft warm cake or muffin to me than a crumble - the top was crumble-eque, but the body was mostly softer cake, rather than what I expected as a fruity heavy base with just crumble/crisp on top.  I'd say mine was at least 85% crumble rather than fruit.  Maybe more what I'd call a buckle or betty?  Anyway, that part was sweet, warm, and decent, but I was in the mood for a fruit dessert, and got pretty sick of eating cake.

The fruit was quite minimal in mine, very cooked down mushy rhubarb, very sweet actually, no signature rhubarb tartness coming through.  So I didn't mind it, but would prefer some other kind of seasonal fruit.

And finally, the sour cream ice cream, which I did quite enjoy.  It was tart and creamy and helped balance the otherwise quite sweet dessert.  Warm dessert and cool ice cream is always a winner for me, and I even would have wanted more of it (or, equal parts this and whipped cream or whipped creme fraiche), as I ran out, and was thus left with spoonfuls of just cake.  Ratios just felt off all around on this.

So, interesting, but not entirely successful. ***.