I couldn't wait to check it out, and had the opportunity about two months after it opened, and dragged a pile of co-workers with me.
I'll be back, no question.
Yokai is located just a bit off the beaten path, on Mission Street, between 1st and 2nd Street.
Yokai occupies the old Salt House space on Mission Street. The curb appeal isn't particularly high, but the insides has quite a lovely vibe.
Individual small plates were on table when we sat down, and never changed out - not between starters/mains, even though they were pretty dirty by then. There were none at all provided for dessert. Empty dishes were cleared reasonably quickly. We were sometimes provided serving utensils, other times were not.
Our group was 9 members, and we ordered a la carte, rather than a forced fixed menu for a group. I appreciated this flexibility. We choose to sorta split the table into two groups of 4 (with a free agent in the middle who I completely applaud for picking and choosing from both sides) for ordering/sharing purposes, as nearly everything (besides the skewers) is really made for sharing. I was glad I was on the end with no vegetarians, although the other side had two. Our two ends of the table ordered independently, but did share with the other end when there was extra or clear interest.
Together, we ordered a considerable portion of the menu: all the first group of intros, all of the third group of intros, all of the vegetables and rice sides, all the desserts, nearly all the skewers, and about half the large plates. The only section we didn't hit much was the middle intro grouping of raw seafood.
Intros
The entire left hand side of the menu is "intros", broken down into three subsections which weren't labelled, but the groupings seemed to be warm appetizers, raw seafood preps, and salads. Our group ordered all the first section (4 choices, one table ordered 3/4, we ordered all 4), one from the raw seafood (other end of table, so I didn't get a photo), and one salad.
My favorite dishes were from this section. The flounder raw prep, with shiso gelee, got rave reviews, in particular, the group really liked the shiso gelee, but, I didn't try it, nor get a photo. I'd definitely try it next time.
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Nori Chips. $6. |
The first bite to hit our joint tables was the nori chips, which both sides of our table ordered, but the other end got first.
They got their batch, and I saw heads nodding in approval, followed by, "now that's an umami bomb!" When ours came a bit later, I understood completely. The nori dust really amped up the flavor. They were delightfully crispy, clearly very fresh, fried but not greasy. A great intro nibble, and I think would pair great with whiskey.
The $6 price for only 3 (albeit large) chips did seem a bit high, but, we enjoyed these. My third favorite dish, and one I'd get again. Or, I'd happy just buy a bag to snack on at home. These were easily finished. ****.
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Sourdough Seaweed Focaccia. $8. |
Next up was the focaccia, not something I would have ordered because 1) why fill up on bread, 2) I don't like sourdough, and 3) I do like bread, but focaccia isn't high on my list of bread types I enjoy, but the group wanted it. No one really commented on it, and although there were only 4 pieces, both sides of the table didn't finish their servings.
So of course ... I decided to try it. It did have a very interesting flavor (not what I think of as sourdough), and was flecked with green seaweed. But it was also very dense and heavy. It seemed very weighed down, and didn't have any real air pockets to it. I understood why no one wanted to finish it. Interesting flavor, but, not very good bread. Third least favorite for me. **.
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Steamed Edamame / Warm Cultured Butter. $8. |
The next dish was another that I wouldn't have ordered, that both ends of the table ordered, and neither end finished. Steamed edamame. I don't mind edamame, but, again, not something I cared to fill up on.
It arrived glistening, with large salt flakes on it, and I'll admit, it looked pretty inviting. People's reaction to it was very odd however. Our end of the table got it first, and everyone was talking about how it was ... cheesy? They all said it tasted oddly like parmesan. I had taken a photo of the menu, and knew it didn't say it had cheese, but, they all said it was really a strange taste to have on edamame. Somehow cultured butter tasted cheesy?
The other end of the table got their order, and ... people started saying the same thing. It was rather amusing to watch them go through the same journey of eating it, tasting a cheesy quality, talking about it, and then deciding they didn't care for it. So of course, at this point, I was too intrigued not to try it.
The verdict? Yeah, it tasted cheesy! The edamame was otherwise fairly standard, well steamed, beautifully salted, but, yes, it tasted like parmesan, and yes, that is an odd pairing. The way it glistened I do believe it was the cultured butter as described, but, it was truly just odd.
Not something any of us would get again, and it went unfinished. Middle of the pack, rating-wise. **+.
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Wagyu Gyoza / la-yu crunch. $14. |
Next we had gyoza, which only our side of the table ordered. We were asked how many we wanted, and we said 5, as there were 5 of us. I'm not sure how many are normally included, but it was nice that they asked.
These were a mixed bag. They were very well prepared, the style with a super crispy edge with incredible sear on it, but the rest soft, pliable, and steamed. They were clearly very well hand made, all consistent size and shape, perfectly crimped, none burst open. The wrapper was appropriate thickness, not too much skin, not too thin. Inside was wagyu ground meat, and it was well filled, no big air pockets. So, execution wise, they were fairly perfect.
But I didn't find the flavor of the filling very compelling, it lacked any real depth, and they were a bit greasy for me, particularly as I used the dipping sauce, which turned out to be very oily, and I didn't realize it at first glance. The dipping sauce was super unique though, a bright green oil, basically a Japanese version of chili crunch. The vibrant green color was fairly stunning, but, I didn't realize it was oil based, and smothered my already lightly greasy gyoza in it, which made it eat really greasy. My error obviously, but, it did deter from the experience. It was not very spicy.
The others seemed to really like these though, and I wished I had tried it before oiling it. The execution though was really something, so, *** from me, higher rating from others. Rated just above the focaccia for me.
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Broccolini and King Crab Salad. $17. |
"Bonito emulsion, jidori egg."
Our last intro was the salad choice, a dish I was very excited for, given my love of
crab. And not just any crab, king crab!
This was the dish of the night for me, no question. I'd return to Yokai just for this dish. It blew me away. Seriously, a stellar dish on all dimensions. It was also quite unique, unlike any crab salad I've ever seen before. I adored it.
So let's start. The base of the salad was lacinato kale and broccolini, torn or cut into just-bigger-than-bite-size pieces. The broccolini was been grilled over the charcoal grill, and had a beautiful smoky flavor. I never really care for broccolini, but, in this form, it was great. There wasn't a lot of it, but it added a nice snap. I adore kale, and the kale here was no exception. I think it too might have been lightly grilled? Both were well dressed and seasoned, and formed a really vibrant base.
Then there was the mustard. Or what looked like mustard, although it certainly looked a bit like caviar too, and may have just been some molecular gastronomy at work? It was quite flavorful, but didn't seem to really have the bite I associate with mustard. In the center was a mound of what I think was the bonito emulsion, made with the jidori egg perhaps? It was creamy, lightly frothy, rich, and mixed in quite nicely.
Honestly, even not considering the crab, that was downright delicious. The kale, the brocolini, and all the dressing-like components, just, so flavorful and tasty, and complimentary. It was a very "dressed" dish, not in an over dressed way, but, there was a lot of dressing elements, given the green vegetables were already dressed lightly and were well seasoned on their own, and then add in the emulsion and mustard.
And finally, yes, the crab. Shredded style, no lumps, and very well picked, no shells nor fragments to be found. Clearly very fresh. Nothing fishy about this. It too was already dressed, and already seasoned, but again, it wasn't too much. The herbs added a brightness, and the creamy (mayo?) was just enough to make it eat well, not mask or weigh it down.
I don't feel like I've done this dish justice in describing it, but, truly, I found it marvelous. Great execution, clearly high quality fresh ingredients, and well, just downright delicious. I also liked spreading the crab on the nori chips, I highly recommend that move, if you happen to still have one left over.
This salad likely will evolve with the seasons, as it was made with grilled romaine and asparagus when they first opened, and now features the kale and broccolini. I'm curious to see what comes next, although part of me doesn't want them to change a thing.
Perfect ***** for me, one of the most memorable dishes I've had this year, and I truly would return for just this dish. Absolutely incredible, and frankly, very reasonably priced at only $17 given the generous amount of king crab too.
Skewers
Given the high use of the charcoal grill at Yokai, a main focus of the restaurant is skewers.
"Grilled over Japanese binchotan and priced per stick."
One of my coworkers expected that it would be yakitori chicken mostly, and was surprised to see, well, no chicken. There was however quail, if small birds are your thing. The lineup was more seafood and beef focused, with three types of seafood, and two different A5 wagyu options (Hokkaido snow beef chuck roll for $23, or Kumamoto prefecture NY strip for $35). When folks realized these were individual skewers, they gasped a bit at the prices. We ordered these individually, and all went for seafood skewers. Our vegetarians were sad there were no options for them in this section - when Yokai first opened, they had a corn skewer I think, but, corn was no longer in season in December.
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Hokkaido Scallop ($9), King Salmon Belly ($14), Baby Spanish Octopus ($14 each). |
Hokkaido Scallop
"Yuzu kosho, scallion."
The other end of my table ordered the scallop skewer, and two of them tried it, took their first bite, and were very, very, very happy. The "oh wow" and "wow, that's amazing" exclamations were immediate. Our end of the table had envy, but since we ordered more skewers, ours took a bit longer.
I had serious regret that I hadn't ordered the scallop skewer myself, which was furthered when our skewers arrived, and the two at my end of the table that had agreed to split it had very similar reactions. They all loved it. Several people said it was the best dish of the night, and, if we hadn't already ordered so much else, they said they would have ordered more skewers of this.
So, sadly, I didn't try this first hand, and clearly missed out. I need to return to try both this, and the larger format scallop dish sometime. Perfect ***** from the rest of the table, for both the cook on it, and the yuzu kosho.
King Salmon Belly
"Creme fraiche, matcha and dill."
I also skipped the king salmon belly, but the folks at my table that had it clearly enjoyed it.
Baby Spanish Octopus
"Chilis, saffron."
My skewer choice was the octopus, which others at my table also got. I loved how smoky it was, and the dots of the chili and saffron emulsions were an interesting plating and paired well, but it was a bit dry and a touch chewy. I think just slightly overcooked. It was good, but I had much better octopus recently. My 5th favorite dish. ***+.
Vegetables and Rice
Next up is the side dishes, dubbed "Vegetables and rice" on the menu. There were only 4 dishes here, two carbs (rice, potatoes) and two other vegetables. We ordered all of them, although my end of the table skipped the potatoes.
These were all served in fairly heavy warm stone bowls. The bowls were nice in that they kept the dishes warm, but, when first served were too hot to really pass to each other, and they were considerably heavier than we expected.
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Koshihikari Rice / Furikake. $6. |
I didn't have the rice, but, the rice eaters in the group seemed happy enough with it. It was easily finished.
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Shredded Brussels Sprouts / Sesame Buttermilk Dressing. $14. |
I adore brussels sprouts, so I was excited to see the brussels side dish. It sounded on the menu like it might be a salad, but was grouped with the vegetables/rice, and in fact was a warm dish.
The level of smokiness in this dish was extraordinary. Such incredible visible char, but also the smoky flavor was deeply embedded in every bite. I loved the smokiness, but, one thing I enjoy about brussels sprouts is their juiciness and bite, and you lose that in the shredded format. I didn't particularly taste the sesame buttermilk dressing, but also didn't mind, as the smokiness made this more than flavorful enough. It was well seasoned.
Overall, a different style of serving brussels, and although I loved the smoke, I didn't find the shredded nature compelling as a side dish. I gladly took the leftovers home however, and tossed on top of a salad the next day, and thought it worked very well in that form. Middle of the pack for me, I likely wouldn't get again. ***+.
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Wild California Mushrooms / Nasturtium Gremolata. $14. |
Our final veggie side dish was the mushrooms. Sounds perhaps simple, or boring, but, this was another absolutely flawless dish that stopped me in my tracks. Granted, I really like wild mushrooms, but if you think, "how good can mushrooms really be?", this dish is the answer. They can overshine most of the rest of the meal, it turns out.
The mix featured variety of mushrooms, each cut into large but manageable pieces. They were expertly seasoned and cooked, with just the right amount of bite. Well dressed with the nasturtium gremolata that added a slight herby bite and great depth of flavor. A fantastic pairing with the red meat dishes, but also truly delightful on their own.
My second favorite dish, and I'd gladly get these again. Truly nothing I can suggest changing about them. I happily took our leftovers home, and another dinner stole the leftovers from the other end of the table too. Clearly a winning dish. *****.
Large Format
One could easily make a meal of the Intros, skewers, vegetables, and rice, but Yokai also had a fairly large lineup of larger plates. The range was extensive, including less common meats (oxtail, wild boar), poultry (duck breast), seafood (scallops, mackerel), and the red meat crowd pleasers (burger or ribeye steak). It isn't listed on the menu, but they also offered a vegetarian tofu dish on request. The vegetarians in my group got it, but I didn't hear any comments on it. I was also amused when I saw a cook actually leave the kitchen, go elsewhere, and come back with two things of tofu. Clearly, they don't commonly make this.
The large format dishes we got were among the least favorites for the group, and I'd consider skipping them in the future.
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Grilled Japanese Mackerel. $34. |
"Mustard, preserved ramp."
The other end of the table ordered the large format grilled mackerel, and as they had 4 people, two of whom are vegetarians, and one that is more of a meat eater, they clearly had plenty to share. The person who ordered it was really praising it, so, I gave it a try, although I was already full, and we still had our bigger dishes, and all our sides, to come.
It was a nice dish. The mackerel was grilled very well - I loved how crispy the skin was, and yet the flesh was still quite moist. The flavor was only mildly intense, sometimes mackerel can be quite an acquired taste, but this was more mild that it often is. I really liked the grainy mustard on top, the same condiment that I saw earlier on the crab salad. The hunk of lemon to drizzle over went well with it too.
If you like mackerel, this was indeed very well executed. ***+. I rank it middle of the pack personally, alongside the brussels sprouts, as a dish I'd happily eat, but wouldn't go out of my way for.
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Wild Boar Babyback Ribs. $34. |
"Tonkatsu barbecue, green apple sunomono."
When I did my research on initial reviews of Yokai, so many people mentioned the ribs. Everyone seemed to love the ribs. Really the one dish, besides the skewers, that had universal praise. It was the first dish I suggested to my group to get, and one I was eager for. Although I'm largely pescatarian, I do love a good rib. That said, I had no idea what to expect from wild boar. I think this was my first time having it.
The dish arrived looking great, smothered in the tempting sounding tonkatsu barbecue. The first person in our group took one, dove right in, and immediately ... got visibly less excited. He seemed to struggle chewing it. The next person grabbed one, and dove right in. He too, took one bite, set it down, and went back to other things. I still eagerly grabbed one myself, although I split one with my neighbor, as we both wanted #allTheThings.
I immediately understood the reactions of the rest of the group. The meat was incredibly tough. And chewy, but, mostly just tough. As in, I literally couldn't chew through it. I'm all for gnawing on a bone, but this was actually to the point that my teeth were not capable of chewing through. I didn't get a sense of the taste of the meat, as the barbecue sauce overwhelmed. The sauce was very, um, saucy, and otherwise not remarkable. We were provided with wet towels to take care of the messy fingers.
So the ribs themselves were fairly inedible. I was sad, as I was genuinely curious what wild boar tastes like, and also confused, because these had so many good reviews online. Did we really just get a poorly executed batch? *.
On the side was the green apple sunomono, and that I really enjoyed. It was thinly sliced apple, nicely tart and crisp. Lots of furikake on top. Umami, salty, flavorful. I think the freshness nad acid likely would cut the heaviness of the ribs well, had we been able to actually eat those. A surprising **** for the apple salad.
The ribs were the universal least favorite dish at the table, and a shock to all of us.
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Dry Aged Bone-In Ribeye (20 Ounce). $90. |
"Calvados, arima sansyo."
And lastly, the most expensive dish on the menu, and one my group was looking forward to. Sadly, it turned out to not be a crowd pleaser. However, I liked it more than the others.
There was a fair amount going on here. The majority of the plate was already sliced rib eye. Given the sharing format, having it already sliced was convenient. On top was a nicely charred bone-in piece, and ... gooey cheese (?), and garnish of herbs. It came pre-drizzled with a sauce, and more was provided on the side in a cute little pitcher. The sauce seemed to be where both the calvados and arima sansyo were, and it was a fairly flavorful sauce, I think basically a Japanese-ified version of an au poivre sauce. Pretty complex, rich, creamy, and it did pair nicely with the meat. **** sauce.
But this dish was obviously about the steak. We were never asked how we wanted it cooked, which I saw as a very good thing. It came medium-rare to rare, for sure. Some parts were really, really still quite rare. It also came with all the very fatty pieces, and it didn't seem particularly well cooked to render the fat down. I heard another diner saying his piece was all tendon. It also lacked seasoning, although obviously the sauce provided plenty of flavor, as did the high quality meat itself. I had one of the middle, medium-rare middle pieces, and thought it was fine - not chewy, tender, good sear on the outside, great flavor in the beef itself. Besides being under-seasoned, it was a fine steak, but I certainly expected more for the price and reputation of the chef, but also, I think I got one of the best bites. ***.
The best part of this dish for me however was not the meat, and it was not the sauce. It was the ... cheese? Why was their gooey cheese on top of the steak? I have no idea. I also wasn't entirely certain it *was* cheese, as the menu didn't describe anything like that, and it seemed like such an odd pairing, AND we had thought the butter in the earlier dish tasted quite cheesy, but, it sure seemed to be a beautifully oozing cheese. I really like the warm gooey cheese. ****.
So for me, the steak was fine (although I admit I'm not a steak connoisseur), the sauce tasty, and the cheese unexpected and delicious, so ***+ for me, but the rest of the group, real red meat fans, who had spent the earlier part of the meal geeking out on cooking technique they use at home for their steaks, had a few bites, and push it away. 70% of it went untouched. They noted their displeasure with the dish. And at $90, that really was a letdown.
Sweets
As you may know, I'm a
dessert girl through and through. I often won't pick a restaurant if it doesn't have a legit pastry program. Yokai was an exception I was willing to make, but, I do think they need to do a bit more in this area.
The dessert lineup had only two items (ok, technically three, as there were two versions of shaved ice). A tiny dessert menus is fine if the items shine, but these were just average. I'd love to see them do more here. I think there is great potential for still showcasing the charcoal grill, perhaps in spring/summer with some roasted stonefruit taking center stage, and maybe something like a smoky basque style cheesecake (even though not actually cooked over charcoal grill, the smoky nature would compliment the rest of the menu well).
Our group got two desserts, and they ended the meal on a slightly sweet note as I like, and frankly, I was over stuffed at that point and didn't need more.
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Kakigōri: Ember-stewed strawberry, vanilla anglaise. $14. |
The first dessert option is kakigōri, e.g. Japanese style shaved ice. It was available in either a strawberry or matcha version. Since I avoid caffeine at night, I had to settle for strawberry, although that flavor wasn't particularly compelling to me (I like strawberries, don't get me wrong, I eat them most days actually, but for shaved ice, I like something like black sesame or yuzu more). Both ends of the table opted for this.
The charcoal grill is incorporated here by stewing the strawberries over fire. Strawberries also show up in the form of ... pop rocks. Yes, really. I knew the pop rocks would be there, but as they weren't listed as a menu component, the rest of the group did not, so it was fun to watch them go through the process of discovering the bursts in their mouths.
The pop rocks element was fun, and actually quite enjoyable, but overall this dish didn't really do it for me. The ice was nicely shaved and fluffy, it was served at the appropriate temperature, but, it was plain ice, not flavored itself as sometimes is done. The berries were fairly mushy (which, makes sense given the stewing), but meant that they just sunk into the ice as it melted, and there wasn't enough vanilla anglaise for my taste. It was basically refreshing cool fluffy ice, with mushy berries. I think it is a great light option following a heavy meal, and conceptually works very well (Japanese dish, utilizing charcoal grill), but I wouldn't get it again. Ours went unfinished. **+.
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Double Chocolate Mochi Cake / Roasted Rice Milk. $14. |
The other dessert option is sorta the token chocolate cake, but, of course done in the theme of the restaurant. So rather than American style cake, it is mochi cake, and the rice milk is roasted. This one took longer to arrive, and was served warm.
I avoid caffeine at night, but, I made an exception to try this. After all, I love a nice warm dessert.
The cake was definitely designed for sharing, quite a large piece. It was pleasantly warm, and had a proper mochi chew to it. I'm not entirely sure what the "double" part of the chocolate was, but it was fairly chocolately, and had more chocolate (and caramel?) drizzled over it. The creamy rice milk was nice to drag it through, and made it overall quite moist.
I enjoyed a few bites of this, and others seemed to as well. It wasn't an over the top decadent dessert, or one oozing chocolate, but I liked the eating experience of it. That said, it also wasn't particularly notable, and I felt it was missing a bit of crunch. ***.
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