Wednesday, October 10, 2012

From Ales to Fromage Series at Piccino Cafe

You've rarely seen me write about beer in a post.  In fact, the only time I can remember posting about it was from my amazing dinner at Chez TJ, where one dish was paired with a beer.  Why?  The answer is simple: I'm just not a beer girl.  I haven't had that much exposure to it, but I've never liked it.  Most I really can't stand, while some I can tolerate, but  I can't think of a single situation in which I'd pick beer when given the choice of just about anything else.  Even in cases where people classically want a beer, I'd still prefer a cider.

Anyway, I was invited to a special Google+Local and Zagat event, the kickoff for the "From Ales to Fromage" series exploring beer and cheese pairings.  While not something I'd normally be interested in, I was intrigued by the idea of the food pairings.  While I may not appreciate beer, I certainly appreciate food, and if there was ever going to be something to make me like beer, food would be it.  I was interested to see if the food would bring out aspects of the beer that I'd never noticed before.  It also seemed like a good way to learn more about beer, and in particular, to get to drink some higher quality ones than those I generally encounter.

The theme for this first event was the farmhouse.  The beers were all saisons, which I learned were originally brewed on farmhouses to serve to farmhands during the harvest season.  We'd be pairing them with farmhouse cheeses.  And, the event was taking place at Piccino Cafe, a farm-inspired Italian restaurant in the Dogpatch.

I have been to Piccino once before, over a year ago.  I remember being fairly unimpressed at the time, but only because the cuisine was exactly like what I get at work every single day.  It was just more kale salads, roasted butternut squash, and other seasonal Californian cuisine.  And the warm apple tart was served cold, a travesty in my book!

Anyway.  The space is lovely, with large windows letting in tons of light.  The bathrooms are unique, with two separate bathrooms with only the toilets in them, and a big modern sink out the in common area.  There is seating at beautiful wooden tables and bar seating overlooking the bustling open kitchen.  Since we were a special event, we had one side of the restaurant set up with some big communal tables.

The event featured 3 courses of cheese, each paired with two different beers.  Before each pairing, there was a tableside presentation led by Master Cicerone Rich Higgins and beer expert Heather Castro, with each of them explaining the history, brewing process, and characteristics of one of the beers.  Their collaborator from Piccino, James Butler, would then explain the food pairing.

The speakers were all very informative, and I learned a lot about the beers.  Even though I still didn't love any of them, I enjoyed hearing the details and being educated.  The speakers were all clearly passionate about beer, and it really made me wish I could appreciate it more!

Another interesting aspect for me was trying a beer and food pairing.  I tried the beers on their own first, and then with the food.  There were certainly cases where I liked a beer more with the food than on its own, or vice versa.  This seemed true for almost everyone.  It makes sense, since I feel that way with wines, or even coffee, I'd just never thought of applying it to beer as well.

It was also fun to compare the beers.  They were all saisons, but were incredibly different, in their flavor profiles, their foaminess, their alcohol levels.  I clearly preferred some more than others.

I'd still never order one of these beers, and during the last two courses I desperately wanted some red wine to pair with my cheese, but I'm glad I had this experience.  And ZOMG, the cheese courses were amazing.

If any of this sounds interesting, you can attend other events in the series, tickets are available here: http://fromalestofromage.eventbrite.com.  Or, if you just want the beers and cheeses featured at Piccino, they'll be offering them for the next couple weeks.  You might want to call first to ensure availability.  If you like soft cheeses and interesting pairings, I highly recommend the final two courses.  They were the best cheese courses I've ever had.
Cevrìn herb-crusted goat cheese, pluot and plum chutney, pomegranate vinegar, toasted hazelnuts.
The first cheese was a goat cheese.  I do not like goat cheese, but this was fairly mild in its goatyness, so it wasn't too offensive.  It was coated in some lovely flower leaves, and served with a pluot and plum chutney.  Even though it was labelled a chutney, I expected it to be more jam-like, but it was indeed nicely spiced like a chutney.  It was sweet, but also balanced by some tartness, presumably from the addition pomegranate vinegar.  The hazelnuts added a good crunchy component.

This was my least favorite of the cheeses, but I liked it more than I expected to, given that it was a soft goat cheese.  The cheese, the chutney, and the nuts really were a nice, balanced pairing.

It came paired with the Goose Island “Sofie” and Hen House Brewing “Saison”.

The Sofie was my favorite of all of the beers I tried.  It was light and clean, with a slight sweetness to it.  It also had some subtle citrus tones, which came from the fact that it was aged in white wine barrels along with dried orange peel.  I'm still unlikely to ever order it, but it was the best of the evening for me, both on its own, and as a pairing.

The Hen House I did not care for.  It was bitter, sour, and very foamy.  My 5th pick of the night.  It seemed even more sour when I had it with the food, I think the tartness of the chutney just didn't mix well with the beer for me.
House made sea salt crackers.
On the side we had crackers, a more simple version of Piccino's regular seeded crackers.  They were crispy, with big salt crystals on them, and good for spreading the goat cheese in particular.
Robiola Due Latti, Marshall Farms orange blossom honey,coriander caramel, salted puffed rice.
The next cheese was a robiola.  I love robiolas, and soft creamy cheeses in general, so it is no surprise that I loved this.

Dish of the night for me, and perhaps the best cheese course I've ever had in my life.  Even the dessert girl I am can imagine ordering this for dessert rather than a traditional dessert!

The cheese was perfectly ripe, oozing with creaminess. It was mild, as was the rind, which added a little additional earthiness.  It was plated along with some honey and caramel.  I didn't taste the coriander in the caramel, although one of my tablemates did.  The honey and caramel were both sweet and thick, and an absolute delight to drag a chunk of cheese through.  The puffed rice added an awesome crunchy contrast.  A bite containing all of these elements was really incredible, with the creaminess from the cheese, the stickiness from the sauces, and then the contrasting texture of the rice.

A serious home run, and I wish all cheese courses could be this much fun!

It came paired with Almanac Beer Co. “Honey Saison” and North Coast Brewing “Le Merle”.

The Le Merle was my second favorite of the night, but the Honey Saison was my least favorite.  It was very biter, and even though it was brewed with the same orange blossom honey that we had on the plate, I didn't get any sweetness from it at all.  Only ... beeryness.  Whatever it is that I don't like about beer was very present in this one.
Le Délice Mon Sire, cocoa nib and macadamia nut brittle, orange-infused chocolate glacé.
And finally ... dessert!  (As if the last one wasn't dessert like enough ...)

Le Délice Mon Sire is a cow's milk triple cream, amped up even more by being infused with crème fraîche.  I adore triple creams, and this was no exception.  It wasn't as soft and runny as the robiola, but I loved the mouthfeel of it, so smooth and creamy.  The flavor was much stronger than the previous course, more earthy and nutty, particularly in the rind.  Those aspects were further brought out by the macadamia nuts in the brittle.  The brittle bridged the gap between the cheese and the chocolate.  I don't think I've ever had cheese and chocolate exactly at the same time before.  Sure, I've been to plenty of wine events with cheese and chocolate, but you don't normally dunk your cheese in the chocolate.  But ... it worked!  The chocolate was not very sweet, it was a bitter dark chocolate, with some orange undertones.  The brittle was the sweetest component, but it also had bitter cocoa nibs inside of it, connecting the chocolate glacé to the rest of the dish and the macadamia connected the nutty cheese.  I was shocked by how well this came together.  Cheese course and dessert course in one!

It was my second favorite dish of the night, but a very close second, and again, I can't help but think that if more cheese courses were anything like this, you'd see more ordering them!  Quite a fun and delicious dish.

It came with Logsdon Farmhouse Ales “Seizoen” and Upright Brewing “Seven”.

These were both middle of the road for me.  Not as bitter as the two that I hadn't liked in the previous rounds, but not as light and clean as the two I liked more.  The Seven was better, my third pick of the night.  I liked the Logsdon at first, but then it had a bitter finish that I didn't care for, making it my forth pick overall.
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New Blog Format - Daily Themes

You may have noticed that I've been posting a little bit differently lately.  Rather than posting right as things happen, I've been following daily themes.  I'm liking this new format, as it forces me to be a bit more creative.  After all, I couldn't just review foie gras forever!  Obviously, if I don't have content for a given day that matches the theme or if I get very excited about a post, I might stray from this, but here is my plan:

Let me know what you think!
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Tuesday, October 09, 2012

Even more Rubio's!

As you may have realized by now, I have a thing for Rubio's, ever since I discovered it on my first visit when I was inspired by a free birthday taco coupon.  Seriously, the most successful freebie ever!

I've really enjoyed everything I have had there, and the quality for the price point just can't be beat.  It is completely amusing to me that I have gotten so into Rubio's, given that I first visited at a time when I was eating at high end restaurants about 5 nights a week!  I am so glad I have found this place, and will continue to return many more times.  I still have a number of menu items I can't wait to try out!

Since I've reviewed the restaurant so many times at this point, I'll skip the basics and just focus on the new taco I tried this time.  And since I've reviewed it so many times, I'm going to go ahead and give it the status that only one other restaurant on my blog has ... its own label (I hope Alexander's isn't offended by this!).

This time, I visited on a Tuesday evening, which is when they have their special Taco Tuesdays, and offer their signature fish taco for only $1.50.  I think the value is already amazing, and the $1.50 taco is just mind blowing to me.  Anyway, presumably due to Taco Tuesday, the restaurant was much busier this time, with almost every table occupied.  On previous visits my food was brought to me at my table, but this time they used the pagers, and I had to pick it up at the counter when it was ready.  Otherwise, service was about the same, and my taco was ready just about as soon as I had filled up my little salsa containers, gotten utensils, and settled into a seat.  Fast food, but clearly being freshly prepared.
Mango Habanero Pacific Mahi Mahi Taco.  $3.99.
This time, I decided to try out the mahi mahi, one of the only seafood choices I hadn't yet explored.  It was offered in three forms; like the salmon or tilapia you could have it grilled or blackened, but they also had a special mango habanero version.  The later seemed the most interesting, as the blackened version was basically the same as the blackened tilapia I had on my last visit, albeit with a slightly different fish


The menu describes it as "Pacific mahi mahi seasoned in olive oil and garlic then grilled on an authentic comal and topped with mango pineapple salsa, a smoky red chile sauce made with guajillo, ancho and red jalapeño chiles, along with crema and serrano cabbage slaw. Served on a warm flour tortilla and garnished with a slice of lime."

I'd seen most of these components before, in different combinations in my previous visits.

The flour tortilla was again warm and soft, but it was a little bit mushy and gummy.  I didn't care for it this time, but I'd really enjoyed it on my previous visits.

When the taco arrived, I smelt a fishy aroma.  I was immediately concerned, and my seafood snob radar went off.  But, the moment I tasted it, my fears went away.  It wasn't fishy at all.  The mahi was a generous sized piece.  It was cooked nicely, resulting in a firm but still soft texture.  The filet seemed thicker on this than the tilapia, and the fish was a little bit more "meaty".  I liked it more than the tilapia.  It was well seasoned.

The serrano cabbage slaw I'd seen on my tilapia taco as well, and it was again fantastic.  Fresh, crispy, with some zing to it.  Best filler I've seen in any tacos thus far.

But what really made this taco was the mango pineapple salsa.  Like everything else Rubio's serves, it seemed fresh.  The mango and pineapple were ripe, sweet, delicious.  Cut into the perfect size pieces so that they were full of flavor, but not overwhelming.  The red chili sauce added some serious heat to it, just enough that I really felt like I was eating Mexican food, but the sweetness of the fruit salsa and the creaminess of the crema balanced it out nicely.  A bit of heat when you took a bite, but it never lingered.

The lime garnish was a nice touch, to add a little more zing to the taco, although they have limes (and lemons) in the salsa bar, so it is easy to enhance any taco this way.

Everything in this taco just came together perfectly.  Like the other tacos I've really enjoyed at Rubio's, the salsas and sauces made all the difference, just amping things up a lot.  I think this may have been my favorite taco so far, but I can still dream of a better one: everything from this one - the mango pineapple salsa, the sauces, the serrano slaw, but with shrimp instead of the mahi.  I wonder if I could order it?  "I'll have the Mango Habenero Mahi Mahi Taco, with uh, shrimp instead of mahi" ...

This was one of their most expensive tacos, at a whopping $3.99.  It was well worth the price, and I am still somewhat shocked at how cheap it is, given the quality of the ingredients.  A large piece of fish and ripe fresh fruit?  I don't understand.  I'm so glad I found this place!
Rubio's Fresh Mexican Grill on Urbanspoon
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Monday, October 08, 2012

Nick's Wheely Good Breakfast

I don't seek out food trucks often, but I discovered the Nick's Wheely Good Breakfast food truck at an event at work.  Even though it wasn't morning, I was drinking a coffee at the time, and when I saw the menu of breakfast items, I was instantly drawn in.  I love breakfast foods, and pairing with my coffee seemed like a good enough excuse to go for breakfast food rather than lunch food.

I'm glad I did.  Even though they were sold out of my first few choices, and the egg to complete my breakfast sandwich, this was still really good.  Hands down the best food truck at the event!  I'd happily return!
Chicken Apple Biscuit Sandwich: Seared Chicken Apple Sausage, Pickled Apples, Aioli, Arugala, on a Homemade Cheddar Biscuit.  $6.
This was really good!  What a surprise.

The biscuit was very good, with a tang from the buttermilk and cheesiness from the cheddar.  It was not too oily.  The arugula was crisp and fresh.  There was a lot of it, but I really liked it and thought it added a great crunch and lightness.  The aioli was creamy and delicious.  The pickled apples were incredibly tart, and paired surprisingly well with the biscuit.  The sausage was good, but not as standout as the other components.

These were all quality ingredients, prepared well, with great flavors.  It was all very good and came together perfectly.

They were unfortunately sold out of eggs when I arrived, otherwise this would have also had a fried egg on it.  I can imagine it would have been even better with the egg.

$6 price was very reasonable for quality deliciousness like this.  I'd certainly get again.
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Sunday, October 07, 2012

L.A. Burdick Chocolate

Every year, my mother still sends me a box of goodies for Halloween.  Last year, it contained some candy corn, and mediocre generic chocolate.  I think she must have gotten the memo that her daughter has turned into a chocolate snob, as this year, the box contained chocolates from L.A. Burdick!

Burdick is a small chocolatier located in Walpole, NH, although they also have cafes in Cambridge, MA and NYC, which is where they are more widely known.  In particular, people know them for their amazingly rich hot chocolates, available in several strengths, which are perfect for New England winter days!

I've also really enjoyed some of their truffles in the past.
Assorted Mice.  $32.
The first box I opened was impressive looking.  It was a wooden box, complete with a wax seal and ribbon on it.  I opened up the box to reveal 9 little mice staring up at me.

The mice are one of their signature items.  Cute little things, with silky (non-edible) tails.  The ears are made from almonds.  The box contained three varieties, all filled with differently flavored dark chocolate ganache:
  • Milk Mouse: "Milk and dark chocolate ganache with espresso, covered with milk chocolate and almonds".  Tasting notes: A nice creamy milk chocolate shell, filled with a very creamy ganache.  I did not taste any coffee flavor however.  The almonds were a surprise; I thought they were just a gimick, used for the ears, but they actually had a great flavor and added a nice crunch.  The non-edible tail on the other hand was just annoying.  Why have it in there?
  • White Mouse: "Dark chocolate ganache with cinnamon, covered with white chocolate and almonds".  Tasting notes: The white chocolate wasn't very good, very waxy.  The ganache seemed milk chocolate, not dark chocolate.  It had a grainy consistency, as if perhaps it had been heat exposed during shipping?  There was some spicing, which was a nice touch.
  • Dark Mouse: " Dark chocolate ganache with freshly squeezed orange juice, covered with dark chocolate and almonds".  Tasting notes: A nice dark chocolate shell, creamy milk chocolate ganache that had some orange undertones.  I don't love orange, so that somewhat ruined it for me, but overall, still decent.
These are a fairly high quality, unique, signature product, but at $3.50 each, a little pricy.
Dark chocolate dipped crystalized ginger.  $26.
These were exactly what you'd expect.

Candied crystalized ginger with a zing to it, but lots of sugar coating.  Half dipped in decent dark chocolate.  I didn't think chocolate and ginger were a great combination however, the bitter chocolate just didn't complement the bold ginger flavor.

$26 for only a handful of pieces seemed very expensive.
Chocolate Covered Pates de Fruits.  $20.  Top layer.
  • Red currant with milk chocolate coating: All I tasted was sweetness.  I didn't taste the milk chocolate at all.  And the flavor of the pate de fruit was rather indistinguishable, just sweet.  Second to least favorite.
  • Apricot with dark chocolate coating: The dark chocolate was really quite good.  Bitter, smooth, with some depth to it.  It was way too strong for the pate de fruits however, and completely overwhelmed the apricot flavor.  Not that I really minded, as I enjoyed the chocolate quite a bit!  My favorite of these.
Chocolate Covered Pates de Fruits.  Bottom layer.
  • Rhubarb with white chocolate coating:  I didn't like the white chocolate at all.  It had that nasty fake taste that gives white chocolate a bad reputation.  I also thought the filling was apricot based on the color, but couldn't really distinguish it as anything.  I looked it up online later and saw that it was rhubarb.  Perhaps that explains why I didn't like this, as I can't stand rhubarb!  Least favorite.
  • Raspberry with dark chocolate coating: Nice smooth dark chocolate, nice raspberry filling.  Had seeds in it even.  Second favorite
Overall these weren't that great.  I wouldn't get again.  And at over $1 each, definitely over priced.
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Saturday, October 06, 2012

Demo by Pam Mazzola, Prospect

As you know, I often attend the demos at the Ferry Building on Saturday mornings.  Since I've talked a lot in past reviews about the cooking demo program, I'll skip those details here.  You also know that I don't tend to write up the demos, unless they are exceptional.  And this one was.

I was very excited when I saw that chef Pam Mazzola from Prospect/Boulevard would be doing the demo this week.  Even though there were a slew of things going on in the city that I planned to attend, I knew I had to somehow fit this in, as I'm always interested in what they are coming up with at the restaurants.  I love their approach to Californian cuisine and seasonal cooking, and they are always mixing up the dishes slightly, although continuing to somehow feature my favorite ingredients all of the time (and I'm not just talking about foie gras, although the last time I had it there, before the ban, was incredible!).  Since I live right above Prospect and walk by Boulevard all of the time, I'm constantly drooling over their menus.

When I sat down and looked at the recipe I was a little surprised.  Normally the recipes are a single page, sometimes spilling onto the back page.  This one continued on to a third sheet!  And it contained a bunch of separate components.  It seemed very ambitious to demo all of that in a short time, and I worried that it was going to be too complicated for me to consider trying on my own.  After all, part of the point of these demos is to inspire us in our own kitchens, right?

But I shouldn't have worried.  The demo did not run over, and she finished all of the components.  And ... amazingly, I do think I could perhaps pull off every single one of them.  What I absolutely loved about the demo is that for each component, she also told us other uses for it.  I could imagine either tweaking the composed dish somewhat to suit my tastes more, or making every component in it and then re-using them in other dishes on the following days.  For a dish that had so much going on, this was surprisingly versatile.  In addition to sharing other uses for the components, she also provided adaptations, for example, a way to make romesco sauce using pine nuts for those with nut allergies, or with beans instead of bread to make it gluten free.

The chef was clear and well spoken.  Her demo was very informative, and her enthusiasm for the city and the market came though.  Also at the event was Kathy King, the general manager.  She spoke a little at the end about the history of the two restaurants and the differences between them.

The thing I took away most from the demo is that it is possible for the home cook to work with squid.  I would have never considered that before seeing this demo.  It has always just seemed far too complicated, as I didn't know how to clean it, and since it is so often poorly done in restaurants (rubbery, over cooked, etc), it seemed unfathomable that I could ever do it myself.  She showed us how to clean the squid, cutting off the tentacles, removing the beak, and ripping out the guts.  I am still a little weary of that part, but far more confident that I would have been before.

But the best part, and why I'm writing this post: I think this was the tastiest demo dish I've ever had.  I can't wait to go back to Prospect.  Or Boulevard.  Or ... both!
Grilled Monterey Calamari with Shelling Beans, Pepper Salad, Arugula, and Sauce Romesco.
This was absolutely delicious!

The squid was perfectly executed, with a fantastic smokiness from the grill.  If all squid tasted like this, people would eat it more regularly!  Other than the step of cleaning it, it was also really simple to prepare, just brushed with olive oil, salt, pepper, and put on the cast iron griddle for about 3 minutes.  Simple treatment of the star ingredient, and so tasty.

There were a variety of types of beans, all decent, but not really my thing.  Served warm, and a somewhat unique aspect to the dish.  Pam mentioned that they could also be served alone as a side, or dressed up with some vinaigrette and turned into a salad.  Not what I'd be interested in, but if you like beans, I could see how versatile they would be.

The fresh tomato sauce was incredible.  Again, it was so simple!  The dry farmed Early Girls really just shined.  She simply grated the tomatoes, cooked them with a little garlic and shallot for a few minutes, strained the sauce, and was done.  And it was tastier than pretty much any canned tomato sauce I've ever had.  It was another component that you could do a lot with: use it as a pasta sauce, a pizza sauce, serve with fish, etc.  And it freezes well.  A wonderful base recipe to have in your recipe box, and one I'll certainly consider making myself.

It was also topped with a little fresh arugula and crispy shallot salad.  I'm a sucker for crispy shallots and think they are one of the tastiest things on earth.  They didn't disappoint here, and the crispy texture was a nice component.

And finally, the romesco.  So delicious.  In general, I love romesco and will coat just about anything in it.  So it comes as no surprise that I loved this part.  It went incredibly well with the squid, with the slightly smoky charred flavor they both had mirroring each other.  Absolutely delicious.

I would have loved to have a crostini with this, to soak up the remaining tomato sauce and romesco.

Definitely one of the tastiest demos I have ever been to!
Caramel corn, cocoa nibs, salt.
As if I wasn't happy enough at the end of this demo, Chef Pam came around with a special treat for everyone: bags of their caramel corn!  OMG.  You know what a dessert girl I am, so this was particularly up my alley.  I've of course had it at the restaurant before, so I knew what a treat I was in for.  I couldn't even wait a minute before breaking into the bag.

This is very good caramel corn!  Each kernel is coated in the caramel, there are some cocoa nibs adding additional flavor and some bitterness, and salt to balance it all out.  The popcorn is fresh and crispy, and in various size clumps.  Oh so good.  I've normally had this as a bar snack, but found today that it pairs perfectly with coffee too.

What a great additional treat, thank you!
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Friday, October 05, 2012

Hapa SF

For some reason that I don't really understand, Dos Equis has teamed up with Hapa SF for the Mobile Academy Food Truck, a food truck sponsored by Dos Equis for two weeks, cruising around SF and giving out free food.  Hapa SF is a Filipino food truck that normally appears around town, but for this event, they were running a very limited menu: chicken free, pig's head sisig, or pickled duck eggs.  Interesting stuff!

I stumbled upon it while walking around town, drawn in by the folks wearing rather unusual costumes. I'd just had lunch, so I didn't want much, but tried out the least adventurous of the dishes, the pickled duck egg.

I can't say I'd go back, but I know this wasn't anything like their normal menu, so I am curious what they normally serve.  Follow @HapaSF on Twitter if you want to find them during this promotion ...
Itlog na Maalat: Pickled duck egg with fresh heirloom tomato.
I was a little surprised when I received a salad.  The description didn't say it had greens!

Anyway, the greens were fresh enough, but pretty generic, as were the sliced little tomatoes.  It was lightly dressed with an unremarkable dressing.

The highlight was obviously the duck eggs.  I'm sure I've had duck egg before, but I think they were likely fried or poached then.  The most surprising thing to me was how flavorful the yolk was.  It had a much stronger flavor than a chicken egg!  The eggs were very lightly pickled, with a slight saltiness to them.  I'm glad I experienced the duck egg, but meh, this wasn't that exciting.
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