Wednesday, August 18, 2021

ALX Gastropub

Alexander's Steakhouse.  A place that should require no introduction to my loyal blog readers, as you know it is my favorite restaurant in San Francisco (and restaurant group in general), so much so that I have an entire label on my blog for it.  There was a period of my life, around the foie gras ban in California, where I was quite the regular.

And thus, I was thrilled when the restaurant group announced a new venture, dubbed ALX Gastropub, just down the street from my house.  It was supposed to be a more casual establishment, but still with a high end beef focus, and very swanky setting.

The concept wasn't really a hit.  Maybe it was the location, maybe it was the branding - I think diners weren't quite expecting the price tag that came at the Gastropub, nor the more formal service (which, was still VERY scaled down from Alexander's Steakhouse).

After a few months, they rebranded as ALX by Alexander's Steakhouse, calling attention to the relationship with the mothership, and the steakhouse focus.  The head chef changed.  The menu changed.  Etc.  It still struggled, but got a re-birth during the pandemic as The Patio by Alexander's Steakhouse, when outdoor dining was required, and the formal space for Alexander's Steakhouse wasn't really pandemic friendly.

And then it closed, with some vague mentions of a new concept being developed.  I eagerly await more details.

Anyway, I did visit ALX Gastropub, and intended to visit another time before publishing a full review, but alas, I never did.  This visit was in the days of the ALX Gastropub branding, fairly early on in its life, November 2018.
Feast!
I visited with a party of 3, one weeknight evening when a friend was in town.  We sampled around the menu.

We all enjoyed our meal.  The food was good.  Every dish had a special touch, everything was well prepared, thoughtful dishes, flavorful, nicely presented.  Not a single dish was mediocre.

Service was good, the ambiance inviting.

Summary from one fellow diner?  "I really like this meal".  I concur.  We planned to be back.

Setting

Curb Appeal.
ALX is located on Folsom Street, near 3rd, slightly set back from the street.

This area was transformed into a patio for the Patio by Alexander's Steakhouse outdoor dining concept.
Interior.
The decor is upscale casual, all brand new, well designed, with a dark esthetic.
Lighting.
Lighting was a big focus, with candles on the tables, overhead lights, wall lights.
Group Seating.
Tables exist of all sizes, including this kinda cool round shaped one for a medium sized group.  There are private areas as well.
Open Kitchen.
We were seated right near the kitchen, with large windows overlooking, so I could peek in from time to time to watch the action.  I saw the exec chef there the whole night, mostly expediting, but on the line a few times.  Clearly keeping an eye on things.

At one point, the entire grill was loaded up with burgers and buns, clearly the top selling item.  The kitchen was busy, but not ever frantic.
Table Decor.
Each table is set with a decorative candle and succulent, a nice touch to have a live plant, and not a flower.

Drinks

As a gastropub, ALX takes the drinking aspects of the menu just as seriously as the food.  I had a cocktail, but it wasn't remarkable.
Cocktails, Beer, Wines by the Glass.
The entire backside of the menu is drinks, a generous beer selection (it is a gastropub after all), bottles, cans, and draft, more than a dozen cocktails (all named after places in San Francisco), and wine.

The wine line up looks legit, broken not into categories of red/white/sparkling, but also into "Approachable" ($12-18), "Lavish" ($19-26), and "Xtravagant" ($35-45, all Coravin preserved).

I went for a cocktail, but wish I had opted for wine.

No mocktails were offered, and an attempt to order one was met with lukewarm "I could ask about it".
Wine Bottle List.
A bottle list is also available.
Ocean Beach? $15. Dolores Park?
"Monkey Shoulder Scotch, Sweet Vermouth, Cherry, Blood Orange."

For my cocktail, I ordered the Ocean Beach.  I was told it was the most popular.

I was confused when I tasted it however.  It tasted ... like beets.  I told myself that it was my just my brain playing tricks on me due to the red color, which I decided must be from cherry and blood orange.  It also tasted floral.  Botanical.  Herby.  I really couldn't detect cherry or blood orange, and really, really didn't taste scotch.  It was a bit too sweet, unexpected from a scotch drink.

My confusion intensified when I found a slice of beet in it at at the end.  Um, what?  When our bill arrived, I checked, and it did say Ocean Beach.  I thought I was crazy at this point.

But later, when I re-read the menu, I decided this must have been the "Dolores Park", not the "Ocean Beach".  Yes, both San Francisco neighborhoods, but very different.  The ingredients in the Dolores Park?  Gin, beets, lavender, jasmine, orange blossom.  Yeah, something that *would* taste like beets and botanicals.  Sigh.

Minus a point for this mix-up.

Food

While I enjoy a nice glass of wine or cocktail, I was there for the food, obviously.  This is a dining club after all!
Dinner Menu.
The dinner menu is broken into 5 sections: to share (appetizers), salads, flatbreads, entrees, and sweets.  I appreciated that the dessert menu was provided up front, so I could plan how much "space" to save!  I often ask for dessert menus before ordering my main meal, and this saved me the effort.

Our group opted for one "to share", one salad, one entree, and two desserts, plus a bar snack gift from the kitchen, all to share.  It was the right amount of food for our not that hungry group of 3 (we weren't planning to go out that night, it just happened).

To any menu item, you can add truffle butter, black cod, chicken, steak, avocado, bacon, or egg.  Or you can opt for "Luxury Add-Ons", seared foie gras or several types of truffles.  Because, although this is a casual gastropub, it is still an Alexander's establishment after all!  If you want to go big, you certainly can.  Yes, you could totally add a hunk of seared foie to your ... salad.  Or your ... mac and cheese (hmmm ...).

To Share

The starters section of the menu is called "to share", which, I understand the naming, but, the flatbreads also look to share?  And, well, we shared everything.

This section has classic standards like oysters, cheese, and charcuterie and also some bar snacks, taken up a notch, like a fancy mac n cheese, ribs (served with tempting sounding slaw and cornbread), wings (house made hot sauce), and fried stuff - regular fries, sweet potato fries, and, their signature tots.  We went for the later.
Totes M'Goats Tots. $12.
"CHEVRE GOAT CHEESE, HOUSEMADE KETCHUP, PICKLE MAYO."

We started with the cutely named "Totes M'Goats Tots" to share.

So, the tots.  ALX seems to have two signature items.  One is the burger, although that one struggled, and the other, the tots.  The "Totes M'Goats Tots" that is.

Now, I was almost crazy excited about these.  Fresh crispy fried things, with housemade sauces, is exactly my style.  But ... GOAT CHEESE ALERT.  I hate goat cheese (yes, I've tried all kinds.  Yes, my sister even has goats, I had her goat milk, cheese, ice cream, etc.  I've had it fresh as can be.  I've had award winning goat cheese of all varieties, fresh, aged, etc.  I'm sorry, I don't like it).

We still ordered the tots, as the others like goat cheese, and I wanted to see if possibly I could ignore the goat cheese.

They arrived extremely quickly, before our drinks even.  Ridiculously hot and fresh from the fryer, but not oily.  The serving vessel, a little metal fry basket, was a cute touch (that we'd see again in the dessert round).

The texture of the tots was fantastic.  Super crispy exterior, and inside, was like mashed potato.  Well, oozing cheese mashed potato.  So fabulous ... almost.  It *was* goaty , so I just couldn't really like it.  I respected everything about the execution though, and the form factor, and wished more than anything that something other than goat cheese was used.  "I like how perfectly crisp the outside is", said one diner.

The house made ketchup I really liked.  A strange thing to call out, but it was quite flavorful, the spicing in it was lovely.  The pickle mayo was also good, creamy mayo, bits of pickle, but it was the ketchup that really shone.

I think these were a remarkable item, just not the cheese for me.  They were actually my favorite dish, just because I respected them and almost loved them so much.  Third pick of one other diner.  Please ALX, make a version with a different cheese ...
Scotch Egg (gift from kitchen).
As we indulged in our tots, a second dish appeared, a gift from the kitchen.  A ... scotch egg!  This wasn't on our dinner menu, but is available on the separate bar menu.  It came perched atop some nicely dressed greens.  My companions really enjoyed the greens and kept mentioning how well dressed they were, particularly once that egg yolk came oozing out and coated them.

So, about that egg (and yolk).  As you can see, it was pretty good egg porn, oozing out as I cut it in half.  Eggs aren't really my thing, so I don't have much to say about it, besides that it was a fine cooked egg with runny yolk.

The sausage based coating was fantastic.  I was surprised to find it packed some heat, just the right amount to keep you going back for more.  The sausage was really nicely seasoned, and that spice ... excellent.  "This is really perfectly spiced in my opinion," said my companion.  It was also perfectly crispy on the exterior, just like the tots.

A very well executed dish, the second favorite of the one diner who gave me his votes ("They just have this hint of something special", he said), but only my forth pick since I'm just not that into egg.

Salads

One area of the menu that seems to be constantly evolving is the salad lineup.  The menu had three available on our visit, and all sounded pretty interesting to me, which is quite rare.  I am not a big salad eater, and I certainly don't order them in restaurants, but each one had unique components, and all used interesting greens as the bases.  They sounded like all very thoughtful salads, full of colors and textures and flavors.

So, yes, we ordered a salad.
Marin Salad. $12.
"CASHEW KALE CHIPS, DRIED CHERRIES, BALSAMIC, YOGURT, PARMESAN."

This was a really good salad.  But yes, it was just a salad.  Next time, I'll throw some foie gras on top ... I'm only half joking.

The salad really was nicely done.

The kale chips were actually the part that made me want to order this, I do sometimes really love kale chips, particularly ones coated in things like nutritional yeast to make them "cheesy".  I wasn't sure how they'd work in a salad, and the answer was that they were kinda crushed up and used on top.  I liked them quite a bit, but they were easily lost, just a bit of crunch added.  I'd love to see these offered as a bar snack or alternative to fries, in a larger portion!

The real crunch in the salad came from sunflower seeds, not mentioned on the menu.  Not my top choice, but they went well with the salad, were more interesting than standard pecans or walnuts, and added that needed crunch.  Chew came from dried cherries, again, not my top choice, but slightly interesting, and a nice match with the sunflower seeds.  There was also shredded parmesan on top,  which I appreciated for the salt and strong aged flavor.

The base greens were the best part (besides the kale chips that is).  Fresh, crisp, assorted greens.  I appreciated the spicy greens in the mix, and non-standard offerings.  It is hard to be excited about greens, but, these really did put in a good showing.

It was lightly dressed in a decent enough balsamic vinaigrette, with an additional yogurt based dressing in the base of the bowl that you could mix in as desired (we didn't realize this initially, and all served from the top, missing it until we were halfway through the salad).  The yogurt dressing was quite tart, not really my thing.

Overall though, a nicely designed and composed salad, with unique ingredients.  My third favorite dish.

Entrees

We skipped the next portion of the menu, flatbreads, available in two sizes, and moved on to an entree: the signature foie gras wagyu burger.  

Our group split only one entree, not because the others didn't sound good, but because we all had been at a happy hour with food prior, and weren't that hungry and knew this burger was going to be quite heavy.  The other options included something in just about every major protein group: seafood (black cod!), poultry (beer can chicken), vegetarian (a fairly boring sounding risotto with sous vide egg), plus pork, ribeye, and a less decadent burger.  My second choice certainly would have been the black cod.
 Foie-Gyu Burger. $44.
"2 OZ FOIE GRAS, 15% WAGYU BEEF, TRUFFLED MUSHROOM DUXELLE, WHITE CHEDDAR, CRISPY SHALLOTS /W FRIES."

Well hello, burger!

I've long loved the burger served at Alexander's Steakhouse (bar only), and when ALX opened, this was touted as *the* signature item.  Perfectly fitting, for a gastropub spin-off of the steakhouse.  The only problem?  People didn't really like it.  Reviews were ... tepid.  I was still excited to try it, but I was even more thrilled when I learned that ALX has taken the feedback and already changed the burger entirely.

The previous version was slightly less expensive, but came with the foie gras integrated into the patty.  Now, it comes topped with a beautiful seared portion.  ZOMG.  It used to have a different cheese, and other toppings, but always had crispy shallots spilling out everywhere.  It looked (and was) very messy to eat, and was pretty busy, but I couldn't wait to dig in.  And yes, it was $44, although, adding the same 2 ounce portion of foie to any item costs $20 normally, so its really a $24 burger with foie added.  You could also opt for the regular burger, with cheddar and mayo, for only $15 if that is more your style.

The fries however were entirely forgettable.  Thin, crispy fries, they were ... fine, but highly highly uninteresting.  None of us finished them.  I'd recommend subbing out for at least the sweet potato fries.

House made ketchup was provided alongside the burger as well.
Foie-Gyu Burger (Medium-Rare): Closeup.
So, this burger.  As I said, it was quite a mess to eat, even worse because we were trying to split it.  But even if you weren't the fillings were so extensive that there was no way to do this cleanly.  Which isn't a bad thing, just don't wear a white top, and be on a first date?  It was quite satisfying to dig into in all its messy glory.

Starting with the bun.  They picked my favorite type of bun, a brioche bun, fluffy and light, well toasted on both sides, gleaming.  The inside was slathered with house made mayo.  I usually could care less about a bun, but this one was really quite good.  "I really, really like the bun," one of my companions said, and I entirely agreed.  Don't get a lettuce wrap.  You want this bun.

Then there is the burger patty.  We asked for medium-rare, and, a true medium rare it was.  Two of us lamented it was actually a bit more rare that we'd like, and that we would have enjoyed it more if it was more cooked.  That isn't to say the kitchen cooked it rare, it was medium-rare, but I think particularly for a patty that is so high fat content with the wagyu, it needed a bit more.  That said, the patty was juicy and fine, just not particularly remarkable.  I did wish for a harder sear on it however.

On top of the patty was perfectly melted white cheddar cheese, plenty of it.  It was decently sharp, so provided good flavor, and seriously, I've rarely seen cheese melted on just that well.  Then there was a mushroom duxelle with a bit of truffle in it, decent flavor, not too "truffle oil" tasting if you know what I mean.  I think I might prefer this without it actually, just to taste the other elements more, but it certainly enhanced the burger in some ways.

And then the best part.  The 2 ounce portion of foie gras perched on top.  Just as the cheese was perfectly melted,  this was perfectly executed too.  Great sear on it.  Decadent, perfectly prepared, fantastic.  The Alexander's restaurant group certainly knows how to do foie gras.

The crispy shallots spilling out everywhere were tasty and added nice crunch, and I didn't mind scooping them up from around the plate.  The very large fresh crisp lettuce provided a slight bit of freshness and crispness amongst the other heavy elements, quite necessary.  Its position above the bun base however made it so the juices from the burger didn't run into the bun, something I always like.

So, overall?  This was a well composed, well executed burger.  Every element had its place, although there was a lot going on.  The favorite dish of one companion, my second favorite just due to the foie and bun, they really shone.

I'd get this again, and try it medium, but I don't necessarily consider it a "must get" item, and I think, due to the richness, it is best split with others.

Sweets

As a dessert girl, I was fairly let down by the options.  The sweets lineup was not particularly inspiring, at least, for me.  

Housemade sorbets and ice cream (made using liquid nitrogen), a seasonal cobbler, chocolate cake (I don't have caffeine at night), a cookie platter served with milk (cute, but, no), churros, and profiteroles.

The ice cream flavors were actually fairly interesting, peanut butter or elderberry balsamic, but, just a scoop of ice cream?  Not a "real dessert" in my world, to me, ice cream is part of a sundae, or served alongside a warm baked dessert.  That said, they did have a seasonal cobbler served with ice cream, normally something I'd love, but, the seasonal fruit was smoked pear, which, eh.

So we settled on churros and profiteroles, a bit half-heartedly.  They didn't really deliver.
Profiterealz. $10.
"Crunchy top, sage honey caramel, blood orange cream." 

I never really like profiteroles, as I don't care for choux pastry much of the time (too eggy).   And I don't tend to like citrus desserts.  Let's just get that out there.  But these I liked less than normal, and it was due to the execution.

They game 4 to an order, nicely plated with the red fluid on the plate, which I think was blood orange?  It didn't taste like much, and there wasn't enough to actually dunk or even drag the profiteroles though.  Pretty, but lost.

I was intrigued by these due to the description with the "crunchy top".  That sounded unique.  Maybe like crunchy asian buns?  But, they ... didn't really have a crunchy top.  They weren't soggy or anything, but I certainly wouldn't describe as particularly crunchy.  The pastry itself wasn't eggy, usually what I dislike about choux pastry and thus profiteroles, but it also wasn't light and airy as it should be.  Maybe ... that was the crunchy part?

On top of the pastry though was the sage honey caramel, and that was fairly unique and fascinating.  "Oh, wow!", my notes read.  You truly could taste the honey and the sage, in a sweet caramel.  I appreciated the subtleties of it.  I also liked the candied bit of citrus rind on top.

Great toppings, but, the rest?  Eh.
Profiterealz: Inside.
Inside was the blood orange cream.  I love creams, but was a bit leery of the blood orange, just because I don't really like citrus desserts most of the time.  On the plus side, there wasn't too much citrus here for me.  But on the minus ... there also just wasn't much cream at all.  The cream that was there was very thin, and ran out as I bit into it.

These were not a winner for anyone in the group.  I ate one, one other diner ate one, and the other only took a single bite.  None of us wanted the final one.  We wouldn't get these again.
Baby Churros. $10.
"Chocolate sauce, dulce de leche."

The menu listed "baby" or "papi" churro options.  I inquired about these, to learn that "Papi" was a large taco shaped churro, filled with avocado ice cream scoops, and the "Baby" were small little churros.  All are made to order.

We opted for the baby churros, and they really were cute little things.  Served just like the tots, in a fry basket, with two dipping sauces on the side, this time, chocolate and dulce de leche.  And just like the tots, they were hot and fresh, made to order, clearly freshly delivered from the fryer.

The churro bites were ... fine.   Crispy.  Not oily.  Well coated in cinnamon and sugar.  The dulce de leche was also ... fine.  Sweet, standard.  I didn't try the chocolate, because, caffeine.

These just weren't inspiring.  There wasn't anything wrong with them, and the serving was cute, but we all commented on how we wanted to like them more than we did.  One person had two, and put down his fork, saying they weren't worth it.  I kept trying, because I really did want to like them, and I couldn't point at anything *wrong* with them.  My other companion just dunked them into more and more of the sauces, but even the dulce de leche wasn't really improving things for me.  I wanted something creamy perhaps.

When the staff asked what we though, I was honest, and mentioned that the profiteroles were lacking filling, and that I thought the churros would be better with whipped cream to dunk into.  Moments later, a little bowl of whipped cream arrived!  Fairly amazing, as, I don't think they have whipped cream to go with any of the other menu items?  If I thought they had it on hand, I actually would have asked for it ...

The whipped cream really did help, as my fellow diner noted, they were "way better!" this way, as they were just a bit too dry without it.

But even with the whipped cream, I wouldn't order these again.  Perhaps the taco version with a fun ice cream flavor would be better?

0 comments:

Post a Comment

Related Posts with Thumbnails