Update Review, August 2024
When I returned to NY this summer, Thai Diner was high on my list of places to repeat order from. I was very tempted by their newest brunch offerings too (think: Thai tea French toast!), and by their lunchtime Thai style philly cheese steak that gets all the raves, but, in the end, my eating agenda wound up too packed, and I was only able to sneak in a small order my second to last day in town.
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| Snacks: Boiled Octopus. $17. |
"Broiled Octopus served with Spicy Seafood Nam Prik."
I opted for just a dish from the "snacks" (e.g. appetizers) menu, as I had other food at home to finish up. I was really craving octopus, so was quite excited when I saw this was still on the menu.
The octopus was really nicely prepared. It was broiled I guess, but I think it was finished on the grill, as it was nicely crisp and a bit smoky. The pieces were chopped up to perfect bite size, and were remarkably tender. So simple, but some of the best octopus I've had in the past few years.
It came with a lime to drizzle over it, perhaps the first element that actually screamed out "Thai" rather than Mediterranean/Italian/etc, which did add a hit of acidity and brightness. The spicy seafood Nam Prik I had the first time I ordered from Thai Diner when I just got extra sauces to play with, so I knew what to expect from that. It was indeed spicy, and it had all the signature elements of Thai cuisine you'd expect: heat, sour notes, acidity, a touch of sweetness, some funk from fish sauce ... it had a ton going on, and was a flavorful (and spicy) powerhouse. I gladly used the leftovers drizzled on other dishes, and it added instant next level flavor. I think I almost liked it more on other things than on the octopus, as the octopus was so good I kinda didn't want anything to mask it.
Loved this, highly recommend, and would get again no question. ****+.
Original Review, March 2024
New York has no shortage of great options for dining, no matter what cuisine you are interested in. When I visited this past summer, I was craving good thai food, as we just don't really have great thai in San Francisco. I had numerous options of course My first thai craving lead me to order from the well regarded Fish Cheeks, which I did enjoy, and would gladly get again, but, I wanted to try something different. Somehow my searched lead me to Thai Diner, a concept that sounded great to me - thai food, served all day (including breakfast), in a diner-like setting. The menu sounded fairly authentic, had some great sounding dishes, and used proteins I enjoy like octopus, liver, and skate. It has a Michelin bib gourmand too, so, some credibility.
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| Packaging. |
My items all came nicely labeled with the contents, and a vibrant Thai Diner sticker was used to seal for both security and practicality. My items came in a variety of containers: this cardboard box for the salad, an aluminum tray with plastic lid for another, and a cardboard bowl for another. All disposable, no re-usable.
Food
So, the menu. I wanted much of it. If I was there at breakfast or brunch, I'd certainly be tempted by the thai tea babka french toast (think: thai tea butter, salty condensed milk, babka base!!!) or even the well lauded breakfast sandwiches (wrapped in roti of course). But I wanted dinner food, and was alone, so, I couldn't order too much. I went for a salad, a "snack", and a dessert, so I skipped the main dishes entirely, including the sandwiches & platters section (diner inspired here, but, thai), the "House specilaities" (everything from curries to lobster omelettes to one of my favorites, khao soi), and the "From our woks" (noodle dishes, which can be made with standard tofu, chicken, or vegetarian, but also fried chicken (!), beef shortrib, or large prawns). I also skipped the sides and the raw bar, so I could order two dishes (salad and snack) and not have too much leftover.
They also have an extensive drink menu, with tons of teas, espresso drinks, wine, and fun sounding cocktails or herbal elixir shots.
Soup & Salad
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| Soup & Salad Menu. |
To start, I got a salad. Not what I'd ever normally order from a Thai restaurant, but I read so many rave reviews of their baan salad (and also, I have had some fantastic crispy rice salads in the past). They also had a standard papaya salad. To the salads you can add a variety of proteins: a fried egg ($2), fried tofu ($5), chicken ($7), fried chicken ($8), beef ($9), prawns ($10), snow crab claw ($13), or even a half chilled lobster ($15).
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| Baan Salad (No Avocado). $15. |
"House salad with Crispy Red Curry Rice, Romaine, Watercress, Avocado, Red Onion & Thai Herbs. Served with Sweet Chili Dressing."
I was ordering it as a light side salad, so I did not add any protein, although I did ask to have the avocado omitted as I'm allergic. Luckily, it was a built-in option when ordering online to have no avocado (same with red onion).
I was fairly underwhelmed by the salad. The base was as promised, romaine and watercress, both quite fresh and crisp, along with some herbs mixed in. There were also some slices of watermelon radish, which along with the thinly sliced red onion, added a pop of color. But besides the crispy rice, there wasn't anything else to this. The crispy rice added great texture, but it was more like the crispy rice topping from Sweetgreen (which I do adore), than the mind blowing creation that was the crispy rice salad at Mumu in Sydney. Just individual bits of dry crispy rice. A garnish, not a focal point. I had to leave off the avocado that is normally included due to my allergy.
So, a kinda boring salad. That said, my salad was also missing the dressing. They had an option to have the dressing on the side, rather than pre-dressed, which I selected. However, my dressing was nowhere to be found. The sweet chili dressing sounded unique, but, alas, I had none. And thus, no dressing, and no avocado (that part was my choice), and an interesting salad it was not. *** as it was all fresh.
This also happens to be vegan.
Snacks
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| Snack Menu |
The next dish I got was from the "Snacks" portion of the menu, essentially the appetizers. This section had so many heavy hitters, like spicy stuffed clams, octopus with seafood nam prik that people rave about (and I do love octopus!), betal leaf wraps (always something I enjoy), Thai "disco fries" with massaman curry and other toppings, and so on. Picking just one was very, very hard. If I were to return, I'd love to try more from here.
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| Snack: Spicy Chopped Chicken Liver. $16. |
I settled on just one, the spicy chicken liver, as it definitely sounded the most unique, and is one of the most well regarded items on the menu. Plus, I love chicken liver!
It was just as fascinating, and delicious, as people had said it would be. It hit all the notes of great Thai cuisine: spicy, sour, sweet, salty, bitter. The chopped chicken liver mix was well seasoned, and properly funky. It reminded me a bit of some fermented pork Thai dishes I've had, with all that umami in it. Very good chicken liver. The crispy fried onion bits on top added crunch and salt, the cubes of pineapple added a balancing sweetness, the thin sliced red onion and lime to squeeze over provided the acid and sour notes, and the fresh herbs brightened it all up. They really nailed the balance of all the things, in a very unexpected dish. I've had various types of liver or pate with a fruit component many times, but this was hands down the most unique prep I've had in years. ****, unique, and very well thought out.
It came with 2 fresh roti, each packaged in a metallic bag to keep warm. The roti was very good - flaky, buttery/oily, lightly decadent. As good of roti as I've had, particularly as I wasn't having it quite fresh. ****. Additional roti can be added to any order for $3.
Making wraps with the liver and other ingredients made for really quite taste bites, particularly when I drizzled the spicy sauce in as well. Speaking of that sauce, it was definitely spicy, and full of unique flavor. Again, properly funky, nice umami and spice, just, everything. **** sauce too.
So, overall, a unique dish, very tasty, and fun to eat as well. **** all around, and I highly recommend.
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| Roasted Chili Nam Jim / Spicy Seafood Nam Prik. $1.75 each. |
First up was the roasted chili nam jim. It was fairly similar to the sauce that came with the liver, capturing all the classic Thai goodness of sweet, sour, spicy, and pungent. Funky yet balanced, and would be fabulous on just about anythin. ****.
And lastly, the spicy seafood nam prik, which normally comes with the octopus appetizer, and gets rave reviews. This truly was spicy as advertised, and overall very flavorful. I detected lime juice and fish sauce, which both gave it a balanced complexity. I absolutely see how it would make for a great dip for grilled octopus or calamari, or really, any seafood. Or even something like yucca fries. ****.
Dessert
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| Dessert Menu. |
And then of course, dessert. The entire dessert lineup was tempting too, with a "thai coffee monster" (a monster shaped thai coffee cake with condensed milk frosting) that I would have ordered if it was earlier in the day for caffeine, or a play on the signature New York black & white cookie with a "green & white", featuring pandan and salty coconut (!), and, for dine-in, an epic sundae. But, if I had to pick one, the banana rum pudding it was, as I adore puddings.
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| Banana Rum Pudding. $10. |
I love all pudding, but I really love banana pudding, and I certainly bought in to the idea of adding both rum and a tuile on top. I was so excited for this.
When you dine-in, the tuile is a topper on the big pudding bowl. I asked to have it on the side so it would stay crispy. I'm not sure if they normally stuff it in with the pudding.
The pudding base was ... fine. It had a strong banana flavor. This wasn't just vanilla pudding layered with sliced bananas, it was actually banana pudding. I did not taste any rum. It was however really quite sweet, and a fairly thin style, not a rich and creamy pudding. ***.
On top was whipped cream, thicker. It helped balanced the sweet pudding a bit. ***.
Then, the caramelized bananas, which were a notch above standard just plain sliced bananas for sure. They were lightly bruleed on the top.
And finally, the beautiful crispy sesame tuile. This was not only awesome to eat (so crunchy!), it was loaded with sesame flavor. Such intense sesame. Sweet too, as it was glazed in some way. Delightful. You could definitely just eat these as a snack and be quite happy. ****+.
Overall, this was good, but not amazing. The pudding a bit too thin and too sweet, but the other elements somewhat made up for it. In a city of such great banana pudding though (I'm looking at you Magnolia!), this didn't really measure up. ***+.
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